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regluing frog slide to liner

 
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Mat Roop
Senior Member


Joined: 24 Mar 2007
Posts: 911
Location: Wyoming Ontario

PostPosted: Thu Jan 17, 2013 10:43 pm    Post subject: regluing frog slide to liner Reply with quote

When you remove a slide from a frog, on occasion the mop part of the slide separates from the liner. It is important to clean the joint and reglue with exact precision so that the slide in its entirety will fit back perfectly.

How do you do it? What do you glue with?... just curious if there is a better way.

My method... after cleaning all parts, hold the mop and slide liner together and underlay it with saran wrap or any very thin plastic such as the type dry cleaners use for garments. Slide both parts into the slide channels of the frog carefully making sure the plastic follows cleanly without doubling or ripping. Touch some super glue to the exposed mop/liner joint at the ferrule end. Remove slide ( the two parts are now fixed in place) and touch super glue to sides and other end of slide.
My concern is that sometimes the fit with the plastic can be quite (too?) tight.
Cheers, Mat
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ctviolin
Super Member


Joined: 07 May 2009
Posts: 961
Location: Roswell

PostPosted: Fri Jan 18, 2013 11:20 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Depending on the job, I will either superglue the slide top (the MOP) directly back onto the frog's ebony slide - and clamp - which I consider a freebie part of a rehair.

If the customer wants the rehair, AND decides that, after they hear that the top has fallen off the slide, they also want the frog reworked too, then I will clean off all of the crap, including old glue, off of the slide (and mop cover), and re-glue with whatever looks like it was used originally - which is often white or yellow glue. Then polish the metal and re fill & polish out any ebony gaps, etc..

Very often, I find that the superglue job, does as well as any slide new re glue job - with the advantage that the mop positions exactly where it came from, without much stress in positioning, because the glue remaining on the parts fits together correctly - like a puzzle.

Either way, it ALWAYS holds well, and doesn't add any height to the mop height carefully positioned back on the slide - when glued carefully, or alter its position when re inserted on the ebony base of the frog. (I think I'd have to consider trying to put plastic in with a tight (proper) fitting slide)

I consider it part of a fair rehair job's work. But it is about all the work I will do on the frog for free. They're often a real pain to get looking "new".

Then again, I refuse to work on any wooden bows that originally cost about as much as the rehair will... too many problems - except for fiberglass or Glasser bows - which are easy, quick, and I have about 1,000 old frogs and parts for. (and very cheap white (ish) hair)

If you do work for the school system, Glasser bows can be a large portion of your summer rehair income.

Glasser (the company, although Mr. Glasser himself used to answer the phone) used to have a really cheap price (I don't know if they still offer this or not) for any and any amount of Glasser bow rehair AND repairs - all for one really cheap price per bow.
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Mat Roop
Senior Member


Joined: 24 Mar 2007
Posts: 911
Location: Wyoming Ontario

PostPosted: Sat Jan 19, 2013 11:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks CT... I agree there are times when the mop fits like a puzzle to the slide liner, but sometimes there is too much crap between the mop and liner to make a snug fit... so I clean that all off and reglue and that is where the realignment is a little trickier.... I suppose a separate jig could be made for that purpose... have not thought about that long enough to draw any conclusions
On every rehair job, I include a complete cleaning of the bow including the polishing of the ferrule, and metal liner if its there... I find it only takes a few minutes. I also clean the mortises of any glues, and make new plugs everytime.
My customers seem to appreciate the cleaned-up look when they get their bows back. I don't know what you charge for rehair, but I know my price ($59) is not the cheapest by a long stretch... but my line is that the best materials and unhurried perfection is not free!
Cheers, Mat
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