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whose grad. map ?

 
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jethro
Member


Joined: 07 Apr 2007
Posts: 178

PostPosted: Tue Sep 18, 2007 2:52 am    Post subject: whose grad. map ? Reply with quote

I tried changing fingerboards on my Violin # 1 which had sloppy feeling
strings. I took an oversize ebony cut blank and slightly tapered the
thickness where it glued to neck- giving me another 1 or 2 mm of bridge
height (and string angle) Strings way firmer now but I have even more
sound vollume now. I am struggleing to fit and position a soundpost to
"Tame" the new beast. Just thought I'd let yall know the tapered fingerboard seemed to work.

I am now about to do the final graduation cutting of Violin #2. I have
Wake's book, Strobel's abd another. Do yall have any concensus on which gives reliably better sound quality? ( or are there too many other
individual variables to say?) I wanted # 2 to be a "standard" configuration so I can judge how I am doing compared to all the Violins
I pick up and play localy. Any thoughts ????????
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Jack H.
Super Member


Joined: 24 Mar 2007
Posts: 346
Location: Israel

PostPosted: Mon Sep 24, 2007 12:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey Jethro,

Strobels book is relatively accurate but there are many variables in the stiffness of different pieces of wood used for the tops.
Go with Strobel for the time being until you get a feel for the individual characteristics of the spruce.

Good luck on the sound post!

Jack H.


Last edited by Jack H. on Wed Sep 26, 2007 5:54 am; edited 1 time in total
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Mat Roop
Senior Member


Joined: 24 Mar 2007
Posts: 911
Location: Wyoming Ontario

PostPosted: Tue Sep 25, 2007 8:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

violin #1... tapering the fingerboard slightly is a common and practical practice...how high is the bridge now? what is the neck overstand? what strings are you using?
Violin#2...go with Jack's recommendation on dimensions to start... but there are too many variables, one can offset another either + or -. Try to get the body as close to standard as possible, get the neck angle and overstand near perfect, then all the rest is ajustments... you will be making many bridges and posts as you experiment!... enjoy & let us know how you will making out!
good luck! Mat
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jethro
Member


Joined: 07 Apr 2007
Posts: 178

PostPosted: Thu Sep 27, 2007 3:21 am    Post subject: new bridge height Reply with quote

Thanks for the replys !
Mat: I have not measured the new overstand, but I noticed when I
fitted a new bridge (aubert 3 star) i only trimmed the top edge about
1 mm on bass side and about 2 on the treble side. I wondered if I would have to use a viola bridge! It was JUST barely tall enough. So my bridge
must be on average about 2 mm (counting the material missing underneath the feet) less than the blank. I would think this must be near
maximum. (!!!!!!) When I put the post in and played it I could hear a
loud buzzing on the open A string. I was afraid I might have a bass bar
breaking loose from the top on the lower end. However I suspected it
could be the post ends. It was, the ends were wern't shaped to small enough a radius. A little fileing and I was in business. I put the post in
the middle of the foot and 1/4 inch behind. WOW the sound was VERY
loud and powerfull. A really Irritating wolf on open A but it has smoothed
out an all most gone now 5 days later. There is so much vollume I may
move the post away from the bridge a few more mm. I like a dark
(darth vader like) sound. I tried some new cuts on the bridge that
seemed to help some too (compared to past bridges) I have probably
cut 20 bridges for it so far...... just trying to learn what cut does what
sound change. I think I am only now understanding a little ! I am running Zyex strings on it. Regular (the basic deadario) ones were too loud. I may try
gut (???????) just to hear the difference.

On # 2 son..... Top is graduated to mode 5 of 325 hz. The back is
at 400 hz (5) and I am continueing to thin it per strobel's map.
I have read about maintaining a semi-tome between the top and bottom plate. Can I leave more than that and if so how much more ???????
I am worried that the back will not make it to 350hz before I reach the
thicknesses strobel shows on his map.
Can I have say a full not or even 2 noted difference ???????

Also I was thinking of graphing (on graph paper) all the observed
resonances of the top and bottom plate(red and blue ink)
(reguardless of mode #)
just to get an idea if they were clumped together or nicely staggered.
Would that give me an inking if the mode 5 differences were OK ??????
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