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Ernie Martel Junior Member
Joined: 01 Mar 2013 Posts: 17
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Posted: Fri Mar 15, 2013 2:53 pm Post subject: One piece rib... |
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Hello
I'm new here and would like to ask if there any disadvantages to a one piece rib on the lower bouts and bottom block? Hope not since I put one on my next violin. It is my understanding that one piece ribs are found on italian/cremonese instruments?...
-Thanks |
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Chet Bishop Super Member
Joined: 23 Mar 2007 Posts: 678 Location: Forest Grove, Oregon
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Posted: Fri Mar 15, 2013 3:53 pm Post subject: Re: One piece rib... |
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Ernie Martel wrote: | Hello
I'm new here and would like to ask if there any disadvantages to a one piece rib on the lower bouts and bottom block? Hope not since I put one on my next violin. It is my understanding that one piece ribs are found on italian/cremonese instruments?...
-Thanks |
Welcome aboard, Ernie!
A one-piece rib is fine, and many of the old master instruments had them originally, but have later been cut down for one reason or another. It certainly eliminates that center join on the rib.
Chet _________________ Chet Bishop
https://bluefiddles.com
https://fivestringfiddles.com |
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actonern Super Member
Joined: 15 Aug 2007 Posts: 444
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Posted: Fri Mar 15, 2013 4:23 pm Post subject: |
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Hi Ernie!
Can't have too many!
I've never done this myself, but have wondered if it would be more challenging to glue up with a close registration to the mold.
I guess it wouldn't matter if you started in one corner on one side and then did bottom block and finally the other corner or any other combination... but I'm suspecting that if you glued up the bottom block first, it would be important to have bent the corner areas quite precisely, or there could be a stubborn tendency to "slip" out of register when the slippery glue is being clamped up, with gaps happening against the mold?
Like I say, I haven't done it, but would be interested to hear from you what it's like when you're done...
E |
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Ernie Martel Junior Member
Joined: 01 Mar 2013 Posts: 17
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Posted: Fri Mar 15, 2013 4:35 pm Post subject: |
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Hey Chet so good to hear from you...Thanks. Most of what I read from older threads seemed to be related to the need to shorten a rib due to plate shrinkage over time resulting in less edge overhang and prefered flame orientation.
There was one person who thought they remembered Roger H. mentioning something structural about it but no reference. Michael talked about it too. So far nothing bad. I would like to make it easy on whoever works on my fiddles after I'm gone and it is the first time I used a one piece rib.
I like the looks of it. |
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Ernie Martel Junior Member
Joined: 01 Mar 2013 Posts: 17
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Posted: Fri Mar 15, 2013 4:41 pm Post subject: |
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actonern wrote: | Hi Ernie!
Can't have too many!
I've never done this myself, but have wondered if it would be more challenging to glue up with a close registration to the mold.
I guess it wouldn't matter if you started in one corner on one side and then did bottom block and finally the other corner or any other combination... but I'm suspecting that if you glued up the bottom block first, it would be important to have bent the corner areas quite precisely, or there could be a stubborn tendency to "slip" out of register when the slippery glue is being clamped up, with gaps happening against the mold?
Like I say, I haven't done it, but would be interested to hear from you what it's like when you're done...
E |
Hey Ern...
It was pretty easy to do. I bent it to shape and then started at one corner and proceeded to the bottom block and then the other corner. I use dowels and rubber bands at the corners and a block clamped on the endblock. I'd post a picture but I'm not sure how to do it yet. |
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actonern Super Member
Joined: 15 Aug 2007 Posts: 444
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Posted: Fri Mar 15, 2013 5:35 pm Post subject: |
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Being able to upload photos directly from your computer would make a wonderful improvement on this forum.
I don't know how big a deal it is to make happen...
E |
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Lemuel Site Admin
Joined: 12 Aug 2010 Posts: 515 Location: Mt. Elgin, Ontario
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Posted: Fri Mar 15, 2013 6:15 pm Post subject: |
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actonern wrote: | Being able to upload photos directly from your computer would make a wonderful improvement on this forum.
I don't know how big a deal it is to make happen...
E |
You're not the only one that has expressed this. I'm hoping to update this forum this year... |
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Ken Pollard Member
Joined: 11 Apr 2007 Posts: 79 Location: Nampa, Idaho
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Posted: Fri Mar 15, 2013 7:59 pm Post subject: |
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A one-piece rib acts as a cleat across the block -- pretty sure I first heard that idea from Michael. If you've done much repair work, you know that blocks like to split right there at the end-pin, and a one-piece rib makes it all stronger.
When you're gone and someone needs to shorten your fiddle's ribs, they'll just cut it at the end-pin hole, trim the ends down, and glue it back together. |
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Ernie Martel Junior Member
Joined: 01 Mar 2013 Posts: 17
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Posted: Fri Mar 15, 2013 9:24 pm Post subject: |
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Ken Pollard wrote: | A one-piece rib acts as a cleat across the block -- pretty sure I first heard that idea from Michael. If you've done much repair work, you know that blocks like to split right there at the end-pin, and a one-piece rib makes it all stronger.
When you're gone and someone needs to shorten your fiddle's ribs, they'll just cut it at the end-pin hole, trim the ends down, and glue it back together. |
Ken
Your explanation makes perfect sense...if it's good enough for Michaels fiddles it is certainly for mine.
http://www.maestronet.com/forum/index.php?/topic/312066-shortening-one-piece-lower-rib/ |
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Ernie Martel Junior Member
Joined: 01 Mar 2013 Posts: 17
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Posted: Fri Mar 15, 2013 9:29 pm Post subject: |
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I'm also wondering what would happen if I used endblocks that were too green...What effect would that have on a one piece rib? |
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catnip Junior Member
Joined: 04 May 2007 Posts: 7
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Posted: Sat Mar 16, 2013 12:50 am Post subject: |
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Hi and welcome Ernie!
Not only can you do one piece ribs but you can also do one piece linings! I did that on one of my early fiddles .. don't remember which one.
I like two piece ribs because it gives me a center line from which to drill the endpin hole. I know I could probably scribe a fake line and it would like a pretty good fit.
I also like to book match by ribs similar to the way a back is book matched.
JK |
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kjb Super Member
Joined: 06 Feb 2013 Posts: 385
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Posted: Sat Mar 16, 2013 9:44 am Post subject: |
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Ernie Martel wrote: | I'm also wondering what would happen if I used endblocks that were too green...What effect would that have on a one piece rib? |
do you mean not seasoned?
well if they shift or split that would not be a good thing, but maybe you mean something else? |
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jacobyfineviolins Member
Joined: 04 Mar 2013 Posts: 55 Location: Omaha, NE
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Posted: Sat Mar 16, 2013 3:40 pm Post subject: |
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Hiya, Ernie!
I think that green blocks are an issue for larger instruments. More so, anyway. The amount a violin block shrinks won't do much more than distort your rib, and hopefully just pop a seam open.
On a cello, a spruce block shrinking can break the rib if the rib garland seams don't do their job and pop open. _________________ I could have carved a scroll by now.
http://jacobyfineviolins.squarespace.com/ |
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Ernie Martel Junior Member
Joined: 01 Mar 2013 Posts: 17
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Posted: Sat Mar 16, 2013 6:45 pm Post subject: |
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John and Chris, Thanks for the useful info. I'm still undecided if I'll put anymore one piece ribs on in the future. All of my stock is long enough and I'll definitely not use green block wood.
-Thanks to all for the help |
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ctviolin Super Member
Joined: 07 May 2009 Posts: 961 Location: Roswell
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Posted: Sat Mar 16, 2013 7:14 pm Post subject: |
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Hey Ernie, it's good to see you here!
One rule here , did you read it in the rules section yet?
1. Keep your mouth open, and your jib flapping... (sorry, ok, that was actually just me talking)
Seriously - it's good to see you here!
ct _________________ Look,
Listen,
Learn. |
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