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sodium silicate as ground ?

 
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jethro
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Joined: 07 Apr 2007
Posts: 178

PostPosted: Sat Nov 03, 2007 3:02 am    Post subject: sodium silicate as ground ? Reply with quote

Tested some sodium silicate as a ground. Took some maple side scrap and put om a yellow water based dye. sanded. Painted on sodium silicate
solution (full strength) and let dry over nite. Sanded slick (very) and added a coat of varnish. Also tried varnishind a spot where there was
no sodium silicate. The sodium silicate seemed to raise the contrast
and darken the flames in the side material. It darkened a little to a shade
maybe golden - brown and made the flames darken and stand out a little
more. Both with and without seemed to have dichroism. However it
allmost seemed like the spot without silicate (only yellow dye) might have
a little more "glow" to the look of it. Hard to tell with onlt a single coat
of varnish.
Any experience with silicate ????????
Tim
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Jack H.
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Joined: 24 Mar 2007
Posts: 346
Location: Israel

PostPosted: Sun Nov 04, 2007 2:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I hate using the stuff.
perhaps it is my technique, but I never was able to achieve good results with it.
bad adhesion of varnish over the silicate and other issues will prevent me from using it again.

a nice shelack ground works just fine.


good luck!
J
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Michael Darnton
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Joined: 23 Mar 2007
Posts: 1281
Location: Chicago

PostPosted: Sun Nov 04, 2007 10:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't like the stuff, never found a good way to use it, and it's destructive of the wood. That said, it sounds like you're using it too concentrated. It should go on as a wash that doesn't leave any residue or coating on the top of the wood, only inside. I don't remember the dilution, but you need to mix in quite a bit of water--I seem to remember something like 1:10 or 1:7, silicate to water--something on that order.
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jethro
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Joined: 07 Apr 2007
Posts: 178

PostPosted: Sun Nov 04, 2007 11:10 pm    Post subject: s.s. sol Reply with quote

Thanks Jack and Michael :
I used it full strength out of the jar- about like crunchy molasses. I let it
set for about 5- 10 min than I wiped off excess. Today I tried full
strength again but DID NOT wipe the surface-- it hardened into a thick,
hard crust that was fairly hard to sand down with 150 grit paper. Also
tried a diluted coat about 1-10 or 1-20. Didn't see much visual change
for the diluted version.
OK, my gut feeling is that it is not overly loved ! If there are "issues"
of it not playing well with varnish above it that's enough to make me
avoid it for now.

I think I will go with a shellack ground.
When I make shellack sometimes when I spray the solution i can see
TINY freckles in the coat. Either shellack or more likely I suspect
undisolved Transtint which I have colored it with. I usualy put the
Trans tint in about 5-10 ml of acetone- mix- and then dump that
into the shellack solution. I am using Hock brand wate free alcahol.
It appeared that normal hardware store methanol didn't quite dissolve
the shellack flakes. I figured it may have a small % of water in it, so
I went with hock- which claims to be just for dissolving shellack.

Any helpfull tips for shellack ground? Or does my formula sound OK
(and I strain the solution before I spray it !!!!!!! usualy lumps)

Thanks Tim.
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Michael Darnton
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Joined: 23 Mar 2007
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Location: Chicago

PostPosted: Mon Nov 05, 2007 7:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

The only shellac I have successfully sprayed was in a can from the hardware store. When I use my airbrush, it's not clear enough--I suspect the difference is in the solvents. I would brush it, and I would dilute it quite a bit, like with the silicate, so that it soaks in deeply. I usually use three or four coats, and don't see any buildup in that time, though the wood is well sealed.
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jethro
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Joined: 07 Apr 2007
Posts: 178

PostPosted: Wed Nov 07, 2007 3:11 pm    Post subject: Shellack ground application. Reply with quote

Thanks Michael:
I will get a good quality brush and try carefully applying with a brush.
This time I have taken my shellack flakes and put them in solution and than warmed the solution for about 8 hours (160 f) stirring every hour
or so. Since the solubility seems rather low I may keep up this routine
for several days to ensure a better solution. When I first put in the alcahol
after about 2 hours I had a partial gellatin so I added more alcahol which
seemed to un-supersaturate it. It looked a lot better after that- though
still really concentrated. Will probably dilute a lot more tonight !
I'm probably getting the alcahol so saturated that when I add trans-tint
it won't go into solution and makes little micro balls which spray out as
little color freckles. they appear to ba about .010-.020 inches.
I have noticed the transtint won't even dissolve easily in pure alcahol.
So It's solubility does not appear to be great to start with.

Thanks for the brushing hint- I will see how it worls !

Tim
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mikemolnar
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Joined: 30 Mar 2007
Posts: 57

PostPosted: Sun Nov 11, 2007 11:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rubio used a 50% water-potassium silicate solution.

http://www.rubioviolins.com/

On the subject of shellac, I too love the stuff. However, I was almost scolded by a top maker for using it. Go figure.
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Jack H.
Super Member


Joined: 24 Mar 2007
Posts: 346
Location: Israel

PostPosted: Sun Nov 11, 2007 2:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

mikemolnar wrote:
Rubio used a 50% water-potassium silicate solution.

http://www.rubioviolins.com/

On the subject of shellac, I too love the stuff. However, I was almost scolded by a top maker for using it. Go figure.



YEah go figure.

Every one does something different.
Try it all and see what you like...


There is more than one way to skin a cat!!!

Jack Havivi
Havivi Violins
Israel
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