View previous topic :: View next topic |
Author |
Message |
Chet Bishop Super Member
Joined: 23 Mar 2007 Posts: 678 Location: Forest Grove, Oregon
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
Dave Chandler Super Member
Joined: 31 Oct 2007 Posts: 691 Location: Mt Mitchell in North Carolina
|
Posted: Sun Oct 18, 2015 11:25 am Post subject: |
|
|
Exactly! _________________ Dave in the Blue Ridge
Southern Violin Association
"Success is the ability to go from one failure to the next with no loss of enthusiasm" Winston Churchill
"I took the road less travelled, and now I don't know where I am." Marco Polo |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Dave Chandler Super Member
Joined: 31 Oct 2007 Posts: 691 Location: Mt Mitchell in North Carolina
|
Posted: Sun Oct 18, 2015 12:59 pm Post subject: |
|
|
actonern wrote: | Balsam resin can be cooked with linseed oil at a 4 parts resin 1 part oil ratio to make a very transparent and beautiful ground coat. | This sounds like Manfio's approach, he uses a thinned version of his varnish to give the wood some contrast before he seals it. Your mix of 4:1 resin to oil, sounds like a very nice ground, not enough oil to make the wood soak up a lot of the oil. I presume you probably have to keep it hot enough to be fluid long enough to rub it onto the wood surface? Or is this enough oil to keep it from solidifying? Would you have to add some turp? _________________ Dave in the Blue Ridge
Southern Violin Association
"Success is the ability to go from one failure to the next with no loss of enthusiasm" Winston Churchill
"I took the road less travelled, and now I don't know where I am." Marco Polo |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Joseph Leahy Member
Joined: 23 Mar 2008 Posts: 98 Location: Ontario, Canada
|
Posted: Mon Oct 19, 2015 1:26 pm Post subject: |
|
|
actonern wrote: | Balsam resin can be cooked with linseed oil at a 4 parts resin 1 part oil ratio to make a very transparent and beautiful ground coat. |
Hi Ernie
Cooking separately and then together? |
|
Back to top |
|
|
actonern Super Member
Joined: 15 Aug 2007 Posts: 444
|
Posted: Tue Oct 20, 2015 6:30 am Post subject: |
|
|
Separately, yes. Once the resin has cooked to your satisfaction, been filtered while hot and allowed to cool, it can be crumbled up and more accurately weighed to establish the oil/resin ratio. Then reheated, incorporated with hot oil and cooked some more. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Dave Chandler Super Member
Joined: 31 Oct 2007 Posts: 691 Location: Mt Mitchell in North Carolina
|
Posted: Wed Dec 16, 2015 12:20 pm Post subject: |
|
|
After several months, a violin on which I've used my varnish, I'm finding that it is too brittle, and easily rubs off. Allthough I'm extremely pleased with the look, I can't leave the varnish as it is.
What can I add to my recipe to make this varnish more durable without affecting its clarity?
Right now its just resin, gum elemi, and spike lavender. And of course, alcohol. _________________ Dave in the Blue Ridge
Southern Violin Association
"Success is the ability to go from one failure to the next with no loss of enthusiasm" Winston Churchill
"I took the road less travelled, and now I don't know where I am." Marco Polo |
|
Back to top |
|
|
DonLeister Moderator
Joined: 29 Mar 2007 Posts: 383 Location: Richmond, VA
|
Posted: Wed Dec 16, 2015 12:51 pm Post subject: |
|
|
I'm thinking shellac, dewaxed, and cook it in to make sure it all melts in. Cooking like in a double boiler, say 180 F or so. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Dave Chandler Super Member
Joined: 31 Oct 2007 Posts: 691 Location: Mt Mitchell in North Carolina
|
Posted: Wed Dec 16, 2015 4:57 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Seedlac might work, I have some of that. _________________ Dave in the Blue Ridge
Southern Violin Association
"Success is the ability to go from one failure to the next with no loss of enthusiasm" Winston Churchill
"I took the road less travelled, and now I don't know where I am." Marco Polo |
|
Back to top |
|
|
DonLeister Moderator
Joined: 29 Mar 2007 Posts: 383 Location: Richmond, VA
|
Posted: Wed Dec 16, 2015 5:50 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Seedlac will have wax in it, you probably know, which makes it more flexible. Of course, you want some flexibility, maybe the wax would be a good thing?
I was first thinking the dewaxed would be harder and make it more durable but now that I think about it the wax in the seedlac might make it less chippy but more durable overall. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Dave Chandler Super Member
Joined: 31 Oct 2007 Posts: 691 Location: Mt Mitchell in North Carolina
|
Posted: Wed Dec 16, 2015 6:08 pm Post subject: |
|
|
I just noticed Michael Darnton's addition to his on-line book, regarding varnish making, and application techniques. Lots of really good stuff here, and a very good read.
http://www.darntonviolins.com/violinmagazine/book/1varnishing.pdf _________________ Dave in the Blue Ridge
Southern Violin Association
"Success is the ability to go from one failure to the next with no loss of enthusiasm" Winston Churchill
"I took the road less travelled, and now I don't know where I am." Marco Polo |
|
Back to top |
|
|
DonLeister Moderator
Joined: 29 Mar 2007 Posts: 383 Location: Richmond, VA
|
Posted: Wed Dec 16, 2015 11:20 pm Post subject: |
|
|
It has been a while since I read the part on varnishing but yes there is so much good information in his writings.
I'm not sure if it is in the book but I know he has said he uses an airbrush for some things so I bought one not long go and I love it. Especially for putting on spirit varnishes. What a time saver! |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Dave Chandler Super Member
Joined: 31 Oct 2007 Posts: 691 Location: Mt Mitchell in North Carolina
|
Posted: Thu Dec 17, 2015 1:17 am Post subject: |
|
|
Yes, I've been experimenting with applying spirit varnishes with an air gun, and it is the only way I would put spirit varnish on now. I took an old fiddle and have revarnishd it a half dozen times, stripping in between, and starting to get the hang of it. The type with the adjustable volume works great, so you can lay it on with a few sweeps. I'm finding that using an air brush, you can put a very intense layer on evenly using just a few grams of varnish, which gives you more clear overcoat to work with still keeping the amount of varnish at such a small amount it has minimal affect on the tonal qualities.
It's also a nice way to apply oil varnish, once again you can put on an intense color layer evenly with minimal amount of varnish. _________________ Dave in the Blue Ridge
Southern Violin Association
"Success is the ability to go from one failure to the next with no loss of enthusiasm" Winston Churchill
"I took the road less travelled, and now I don't know where I am." Marco Polo |
|
Back to top |
|
|
DonLeister Moderator
Joined: 29 Mar 2007 Posts: 383 Location: Richmond, VA
|
Posted: Thu Dec 17, 2015 7:48 pm Post subject: |
|
|
I agree totally. I do so much retouching, the airbrush makes it so easy. I wish I had gotten it a long time ago! |
|
Back to top |
|
|
|