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cutting the purfling channel
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Greg M
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Joined: 04 Jun 2017
Posts: 21

PostPosted: Wed Nov 15, 2017 8:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

L.P Reedy when you are making your cut , do you do it in 1 pass or 2. Also do you move the tool around the plate , or fix the foredom tool so it is stationary , then move the plate around the foredom. I will have to make up my mind because I have been stuck at this point for a month but I want to do it right. Thanks.
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L P Reedy
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Joined: 02 Apr 2009
Posts: 263
Location: Brevard, NC

PostPosted: Thu Nov 16, 2017 6:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I do it in one pass as much as possible. I only make a second pass when and where I slipped the first time.

I move the tool around the plate, which is already glued to the ribs. I've considered trying to make a setup with the tool stationary but feel like it would be too much trouble and require too much space.

If I had waited until I had purfling completely figured out 28 years ago I would still be working on the first one.

Lyle
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Michael Darnton
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Joined: 23 Mar 2007
Posts: 1136
Location: Chicago

PostPosted: Thu Nov 16, 2017 6:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It might be a good time to mention that if something goes wrong, it works fine to pack the mistake with plastic wood, let it dry for a day or two, then come back and plow a new path. The plastic wood will hardly be visible at all in the finished violin.
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Greg M
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Joined: 04 Jun 2017
Posts: 21

PostPosted: Fri Nov 17, 2017 9:36 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks guys again for all your tips and experience, have a good weekend.
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L P Reedy
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Joined: 02 Apr 2009
Posts: 263
Location: Brevard, NC

PostPosted: Fri Nov 17, 2017 7:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks, Michael. I don't remember hearing that before and my plastic wood dried up many years ago. I'll have to get a new can.
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jethro
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Joined: 07 Apr 2007
Posts: 176

PostPosted: Fri Dec 01, 2017 1:28 am    Post subject: purfling cutter Reply with quote

Greg-
I used a dremel on my first violin. I got it to work with only 1 small BooBoo-
but it was nerve-racking to the max. So i decided there must be an easier way.
So I built a tool to do it. It worked all most effortlessly and made a good
clean trench.

I found ace hardware has miniture razor knift blades- they are about 3/4 inch long. I made a handle to hold them with 2 little dowel pins that the blades
thread onto. Then I made some spacers out of brass shim stock. The
handle holds two blades with a spacer between the blades. The spacers
set the groove width. The I put a steel "finger" on the edge of the tool which
guides off the outer edge of the plate.

You simply keep the finger against the outer edge--- and gently (for the first
pass) go around the plate. Then do a couple more passes a little harder.
that deepens the groove some.

Then I fabricated a very tiny chisel out of some piano wire. I skim that chisel between the 2 grooves--- and the wood between the 2 cuts just rolls out to a depth of the cuts. Then you make a couple more passes to deepen
the cuts and chisel out again. It really works easy and no stress.
Even the corners are pretty easy. Use a little diluted glue on the stings
before cutting to help stabilise the inside corners as they break easiest.

I can try to post a pic if anyone interested..........

Tim
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Greg M
Junior Member


Joined: 04 Jun 2017
Posts: 21

PostPosted: Fri Dec 01, 2017 11:29 pm    Post subject: groove cutter Reply with quote

Tim sure if you can put a picture together or video I would like to see this. I just received my 1/16" carbide bit from Stew Mac today and will attempt to try and see if this will work on my Dremel mounted vertically in my jig .Thanks I am always open to new ideas
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ctviolin
Super Member


Joined: 07 May 2009
Posts: 961
Location: Roswell

PostPosted: Sat Dec 02, 2017 10:26 pm    Post subject: Re: purfling cutter Reply with quote

jethro wrote:
Greg-
I can try to post a pic if anyone interested..........

Tim


Absolutely.
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ctviolin
Super Member


Joined: 07 May 2009
Posts: 961
Location: Roswell

PostPosted: Mon Dec 04, 2017 9:51 am    Post subject: Re: purfling cutter Reply with quote

ctviolin wrote:

Absolutely.


[img]
https://www.flickr.com/photos/85680750@N05/9159080843/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/85680750@N05/9168807473/
[/img]
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ctviolin
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Location: Roswell

PostPosted: Mon Dec 04, 2017 10:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

[img]
https://www.flickr.com/photos/85680750@N05/9168818483/
[/img] [/img]
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ctviolin
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Location: Roswell

PostPosted: Mon Dec 04, 2017 10:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

[img]
https://www.flickr.com/photos/85680750@N05/9182141833/
[/img]
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Greg M
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Joined: 04 Jun 2017
Posts: 21

PostPosted: Sun Dec 10, 2017 12:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well I finally got my purfling channel cut on the back plate. I just went with the Dremel 3000 and bought the 1/16" carbide bit from Stew-Mac . I did it on 2 passes and lowered the depth by removing washers 1 mm. thick at a time. The purfling drops in with a light cleaning of the groove and tapping it in slightly. I am really pleased with the results. Now to finishing the rest of the plate . Have a good Christmas everybody.
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kubasa
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Joined: 13 Sep 2007
Posts: 206

PostPosted: Tue Dec 19, 2017 2:30 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I go back and forth on this all the time. Sometimes I use my dremel and sometimes I do it by hand. It seems that after the channel is carved out and part of the purfling and top layer is cut away, I can't tell much of a difference except for maybe a couple of spots here and there that aren't quite as "perfect" doing it by hand. It's interesting to read what others are doing. Tim, I'd love to see a photo of what you made as well.

James
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Ken Nagy
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Joined: 13 Dec 2017
Posts: 3
Location: Goodrich MI

PostPosted: Wed Dec 20, 2017 11:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I wonder what kind of problems you guys have. I have all of them from time to time. It seems like the first few I did worked perfectly just marking them, cutting them deeper with a knife, and digging the wood out. The last 7 or so I've had various problems. Maybe I used to think about what I was doing, and took my time?

Number 1: Slot not deep enough. Biggest problem. Purfling disappears in the recurve. I know it is because I think that the purfling will go in deeper when I glue it. Why do I think that? Getting it flat seems to be a pain sometimes. Either the sides aren't square, or the bottom isn't. Maybe the ledge is not nearly as flat as I think?

Number 2: Grooves with the grain very hard to control width. This is mostly on the top. It's either narrow or big.

Number 3: Corners. Sometimes the little triangle breaks out. Can you ever find it to glue it back in? No.

I haven't done one in a while. I got a Dremel and fixture last Christmas because of the last ones I botched up, but I haven't used it yet for that. I did use it to rout slots for a baroque guitar mold, and for that it worked great.

Plastic wood! Who knew? Michael did.

Ken
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Michael Darnton
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Joined: 23 Mar 2007
Posts: 1136
Location: Chicago

PostPosted: Wed Dec 20, 2017 8:57 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

One thing I just thought of that people may not know is that you need to drag the router around the perimeter of the plate counterclockwise. If you do that, the turning of the bit pulls the guide against the edge of the plate. If you go around clockwise, then the twist of the bit pushes the tool outwards towards the edge, and you are fighting that all the way around. There's enough to worry about without that.
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Last edited by Michael Darnton on Wed Dec 27, 2017 6:23 pm; edited 1 time in total
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