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phillipdanbury Junior Member
Joined: 26 May 2018 Posts: 4 Location: New England
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Posted: Thu Sep 27, 2018 6:33 pm Post subject: Tapering rib assembly from top to bottom |
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Hello all,
I am making my first violin and my guide materials are ambiguous on this point.
My build is based on the Stradivari Messiah. I understand that the violin frame tapers top (30mm) to bottom (32mm). Should one face be flat, where the ribs are all perpendicular to that plane? And then one side acquires the full taper? Or should the taper occur on both sides and sum to the full taper?
Any feedback is appreciated.
Thanks!
Phillip _________________ To change the world, change your mind. |
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DonLeister Moderator
Joined: 29 Mar 2007 Posts: 383 Location: Richmond, VA
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Posted: Thu Sep 27, 2018 10:09 pm Post subject: |
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Hi Phillip,
I wouldn't be too concerned about it.
The old Italians had very crooked corner blocks, and they are the gold standard. Even though hardly a modern maker would dare copy that these days.
There had been a trend (and theory) a while back where the ribs would be kept flat up to the upper corner blocks and it tapered to the upper (neck) block. I tried that and it messed up my arching heights by bending the plates and it also distorted the rib garland to where the last plate that was glued on didn't fit as well. |
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phillipdanbury Junior Member
Joined: 26 May 2018 Posts: 4 Location: New England
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Posted: Fri Sep 28, 2018 7:59 am Post subject: |
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So I might omit the taper, or taper it in any way which is convenient? _________________ To change the world, change your mind. |
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L P Reedy Super Member
Joined: 02 Apr 2009 Posts: 276 Location: Brevard, NC
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Posted: Fri Sep 28, 2018 7:34 pm Post subject: |
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I've done it the way Don described (because the old Cremonese clearly did it generally that way) for many years with no ill effects so far. But it's no big deal, especially on your first ten or twelve. |
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Rick M Member
Joined: 18 Sep 2016 Posts: 65 Location: Okotoks, AB, Canada
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Posted: Fri Sep 28, 2018 10:00 pm Post subject: |
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This page talks about one way of handling it
http://www.makingtheviolin.com/Mould
I’ve got a large (flat) board for sanding. Once the blocks were set in the mould I sanded them until just shy of the final height. Then did the ribs and sanded to final height, including the ribs and linings.
Because you start with blocks higher at one end than the other you get the nice taper and have both top and back in plane. |
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SioFong Tong Junior Member
Joined: 20 May 2017 Posts: 10
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Posted: Sun Sep 30, 2018 12:47 pm Post subject: |
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Usually my taper is on the top side because my neck block is 31mm height when glued to the mould. The others blocks are 33,32mm.
I sand more on the side with higher linings. So sometime the taper is on the back side.
Some posters has the highest point on the lower corner block and tapering to both north and south. The original strad ideal seems to be all 32mm then go to 30 above the upper corner. These two methods will make troubles in setting neck, twisting, bass bar fitting and sound.
If this is you first one, do the simple one. End block32mm to neck block 30mm. Perfect flat. It makes good result. |
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