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Tapering rib assembly from top to bottom

 
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phillipdanbury
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Joined: 26 May 2018
Posts: 4
Location: New England

PostPosted: Thu Sep 27, 2018 6:33 pm    Post subject: Tapering rib assembly from top to bottom Reply with quote

Hello all,

I am making my first violin and my guide materials are ambiguous on this point.

My build is based on the Stradivari Messiah. I understand that the violin frame tapers top (30mm) to bottom (32mm). Should one face be flat, where the ribs are all perpendicular to that plane? And then one side acquires the full taper? Or should the taper occur on both sides and sum to the full taper?

Any feedback is appreciated.

Thanks!

Phillip
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DonLeister
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Joined: 29 Mar 2007
Posts: 366
Location: Richmond, VA

PostPosted: Thu Sep 27, 2018 10:09 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Phillip,

I wouldn't be too concerned about it.
The old Italians had very crooked corner blocks, and they are the gold standard. Even though hardly a modern maker would dare copy that these days.

There had been a trend (and theory) a while back where the ribs would be kept flat up to the upper corner blocks and it tapered to the upper (neck) block. I tried that and it messed up my arching heights by bending the plates and it also distorted the rib garland to where the last plate that was glued on didn't fit as well.
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phillipdanbury
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Joined: 26 May 2018
Posts: 4
Location: New England

PostPosted: Fri Sep 28, 2018 7:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So I might omit the taper, or taper it in any way which is convenient?
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L P Reedy
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Joined: 02 Apr 2009
Posts: 263
Location: Brevard, NC

PostPosted: Fri Sep 28, 2018 7:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've done it the way Don described (because the old Cremonese clearly did it generally that way) for many years with no ill effects so far. But it's no big deal, especially on your first ten or twelve.
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Rick M
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Joined: 18 Sep 2016
Posts: 51
Location: Okotoks, AB, Canada

PostPosted: Fri Sep 28, 2018 10:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

This page talks about one way of handling it

http://www.makingtheviolin.com/Mould

I’ve got a large (flat) board for sanding. Once the blocks were set in the mould I sanded them until just shy of the final height. Then did the ribs and sanded to final height, including the ribs and linings.

Because you start with blocks higher at one end than the other you get the nice taper and have both top and back in plane.
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SioFong Tong
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Joined: 20 May 2017
Posts: 9

PostPosted: Sun Sep 30, 2018 12:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Usually my taper is on the top side because my neck block is 31mm height when glued to the mould. The others blocks are 33,32mm.

I sand more on the side with higher linings. So sometime the taper is on the back side.



Some posters has the highest point on the lower corner block and tapering to both north and south. The original strad ideal seems to be all 32mm then go to 30 above the upper corner. These two methods will make troubles in setting neck, twisting, bass bar fitting and sound.

If this is you first one, do the simple one. End block32mm to neck block 30mm. Perfect flat. It makes good result.
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