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When do you trim yuor edges and inlay purfling??

 
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Barry Dudley
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Joined: 01 Jan 2008
Posts: 64
Location: Monroe, GA

PostPosted: Wed Jan 23, 2008 10:27 am    Post subject: When do you trim yuor edges and inlay purfling?? Reply with quote

I was curious to see how many trim their edges and inlay purfling after they glue the plate to the ribs opposed to Inlaying purfling and doing edge work then glue the plates to the ribs??
Trimming the edges after gluing seems to insure even overhangs. I have always finished my edges before I glue the to the plates but sometimes the overhang is not quite even everywhere.

I am interested in the pros and cons of each method. How was it done in del Gesu's day?
Sacconi explains the glue first then cut method.
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Dave Chandler
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Joined: 31 Oct 2007
Posts: 691
Location: Mt Mitchell in North Carolina

PostPosted: Wed Jan 23, 2008 11:06 am    Post subject: Glue first, then purfle Reply with quote

My previous violins, I purfled before assembling the plate to the ribs and generally have never been exactly pleased with the outcome. On my current project, I'm going to try the purfling & channel after, for the reasons you mention. I think I'll come up with a better looking overhang. Even though the ribs are affixed to the back plate, they seem to trace a slightly different outline from one day to the next, so I don't really know the final outline until I get it glued in. I'm only a couple days away from putting the top plate on.
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Dave in the Blue Ridge
Southern Violin Association

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"I took the road less travelled, and now I don't know where I am." Marco Polo
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Barry Dudley
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Joined: 01 Jan 2008
Posts: 64
Location: Monroe, GA

PostPosted: Wed Jan 23, 2008 11:27 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I know that in the past Michael Darnton completed his edgework before gluing. Strobel and Courtnall also teach this method.
David Burgess glues the back to the ribs while it is still on the form which seems that it would provide more control of the shape.
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Dave Chandler
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Joined: 31 Oct 2007
Posts: 691
Location: Mt Mitchell in North Carolina

PostPosted: Wed Jan 23, 2008 5:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Barry:

It would seem that once you have the ribs assembled on the form, the outline transfers to the back well, so you could purfle and do edge work before gluing and be pretty accurate, but gluing the rib assembly while still on the form requires a form that can be disassembled without stretching the center bouts to let the form out. Once ribs glued to back, you should be able to trace around the ribs for the top and be pretty accurate, but.... What I've noticed is that even doing this, by the time I have completed the arching and graduation, it seems that everything has moved a little this way and that so I end up with some slightly wide, some slightly narrow overhang. So I'm trying the assembly first, then purfle this time. I've read that Stradavari purfled his violins assembled.
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Dave in the Blue Ridge
Southern Violin Association

"Success is the ability to go from one failure to the next with no loss of enthusiasm" Winston Churchill

"I took the road less travelled, and now I don't know where I am." Marco Polo
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KenN
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Joined: 27 Mar 2007
Posts: 89
Location: Goodrich, MI

PostPosted: Wed Jan 23, 2008 8:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I made my ribs on an adjustable fixture I made up. They seemed to match the pattern perfect, until I glued them on! But I glued the belly on first, clamped the back in place, drilled the pin holes and shaped them together, so at least the weird overhang is just as weird on the back as the belly. That way seemed to work quite well. The ribs glued on the belly helps in tuning it. I think... I don't have any strings yet to try it. It seems possible to me that the old masters did it that way. At least it explains the pin holes. I plan on making molds for the rest of the patterns I have backs made for already to try to make them a little better.
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Barry Dudley
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Joined: 01 Jan 2008
Posts: 64
Location: Monroe, GA

PostPosted: Thu Jan 24, 2008 10:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Another respected maker glues the linings in on the "back" side on the form, trims the linings while still on the form. Traces the outline onto the back, finishes the back and then glues it on to the ribs. Then he removes the form and the back holds the ribs in shape. Glues and trims the linings for the front, traces the outline on to the front, completes the front and then glues it on.
I am going to try this method on the two violins I am about to start.
Does anyone else here use this method?
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