Violin Forum/Message Board

Janito · Member Joined: 08 Oct 2007 Posts: 114 Location: USA

Kept getting a debug error

Fiddledeedee · Posted: Thu Mar 27, 2008 10:22 pm Post subject:

Thanks for Everyone's information. I got lots of choices. I think I will just clean up this violin. I don't want to stip it because does have a nice patina to it.

I do however have another violin waiting in the wings that will need wood replaced in 2 areas on the belly. The belly is already off (came that way) and is in 3 pieces that used to fit together. 2 of the breaks are so splintered that I think I will need to cut more away and add in new, to do it correctly. So I will do the stripping to that one. Old wood New wood, I hope it all will match in the end.

I also have 2 more on the way. Very Happy

But I have no idea on condition of those 2 Rolling Eyes

Can they be any worse Confused

_________________
She could sing nothing but "Fiddle cum fee
The mouse has married the humble-bee"
by Halliwell

jessupe goldastini · Posted: Thu Mar 27, 2008 10:56 pm Post subject:

in the world of "varnish" it is very confusing....

certain types of industry and trade refer to the same thing but with different terminolgy...

for example in the world of violins we refer to shellac as "spirt varnish" a house painter would just call it shellac, while a guitar guy would refer to his varnish as varnish but it would be laquer most likely....gee and then theres oil base finish, for example a wood floor guy would be refering to oil base polyurethane and a violin guy would be refering to a custom blend of linseed/walnut oil and turpentine and other resins...and then theres two part waterbase/ one part waterbase ....two part conversion varnish{acid cure} ....moisture cure urethane....emulsion hybrid{oil/water finishes} 100% soilds finish and u.v cure finish.....marine varnish....none of which apply to what we want to do....for now lets keep it simple....

lets just deal with spirt varnish....ie shellac.....

the cut and or solvent for shellac is ethonol....and or pure grain alchol...

HIGHLY FLAMMIBLE...BE CAREFUL....20 degree flash point

now many would say " seek out EVERCLEAR pure 190 proof and use that as a solvent, based on the fact that they think they are being "green" and "pure"by using it instead of slx denatured alchol{availible at paint stores and home depot}....denatured alcohol has methnol{wood alcohol} and M.E.K methylethelketone added....and as bad as that sounds they are both "natural" dirivitives that are poisionous to ingest and are done on purpose to deter people drinking it, but with the real purpose of skating alcohol taxation that would be applied if it were not poisioned....

it is also used in fuel and as a marine fuel for cooking

ok so if your violin is "oil base" finish the alc won't cut it....if its spirit ,it will come off in 5 minutes.....

so you have to determine if you want to "go all the way or not"....

if so go get ethonol...soak rag....start rubbin....yehaw....down to raw wood quick like...or atleast the ground...........for if its been "sized" with hyde glue, the alc wo'nt take that off....not that thats a problem....

well one step at a time.......

base it on your descion of what you want to do....

to repair the cracks the top very well may have to come off...expect it to come off in peices or with hinge cracks....your job is to put humpty dumpty together again...

good practice is to drain an egg...rinse it out...let it dry.....step on it....glue it back together again using hyde glue and a tooth pick........

step lightly on the rice paper grasshopper, study hard, practice often and the road to supreme silence will be yours......

Mat Roop · Posted: Sun Mar 30, 2008 12:40 am Post subject:

Do not strip... that will just become an exercise in creating an artificial look... and a process you would never ever use on a good violin.
I clean with hot water ( as hot as the hand can stand) and in 1 cup add a glug or two of household pure ammonia. use it carefuly and quickly... have dry rags onhand and start small to test to see how durable the existing varnish is.... works well but can erode weak and brittle varnish.
Restore lustre with a varnish rub... Cheers, mat

Mark Sullivan · Posted: Sun Apr 13, 2008 3:10 pm Post subject:

I have a similar German trade viloin that I am learning on also. The top has at least four cracks one along the bassbar. I have spent a fair amount of time using warm water and a microfiber towel cleaning the top. Close to six hours and counting. The results are slow but I did not want to introduce anymore contaminants to the cracks than I already may have or am doing prior to gluing. The water treatment also is cleaning the nicks and bare spots well also. The upper bass side purfling was completely covered and the area below the finger board was black. I am pleased with the results though it does take some time.

Mark

Mark Sullivan · Posted: Sun Apr 13, 2008 3:10 pm Post subject:

I have a similar German trade viloin that I am learning on also. The top has at least four cracks one along the bassbar. I have spent a fair amount of time using warm water and a microfiber towel cleaning the top. Close to six hours and counting. The results are slow but I did not want to introduce anymore contaminants to the cracks than I already may have or am doing prior to gluing. The water treatment also is cleaning the nicks and bare spots well also. The upper bass side purfling was completely covered and the area below the finger board was black. I am pleased with the results though it does take some time.

Mark