Violin Forum/Message Board

Jack Rushing · Member Joined: 23 Mar 2007 Posts: 170

I suspect this has been discussed in the past, but please hit me one more time with it. I have a Maker's Book that says the scoop on the finger board
should be 1mm. Is this a general, or standard figure, or do different violins
require a different scoop? Where should the deepest part of the scoop be
located? How far down can you plane or sand a finger board, before it calls
for a replacement?

FiddleDoug · Member Joined: 08 Sep 2007 Posts: 227 Location: Hilton, NY

I suspect that the 1 mm figure is pretty common with most instruments. If the string height at the nut and the end of the FB (through bridge height) are correct, the scoop should work properly. Personally, the 1 mm scoop is "measured" by eye, so it could actually be 0.9 or 1.1 without making much difference. Since I'm always learning, I'd love to hear thoughts from others on this.
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www.wallindependent.com

Jeffrey Holmes · Member Joined: 03 Apr 2007 Posts: 90 Location: Ann Arbor

In general, for violin, I use the average diameter of a G string (about 1 mm) on the bass side and the less (about half that) on the treble side... This seems to satisfy 98% of the players I work with (mostly pros). A nice side effect of this practice is that the curve of the fingerboard can be more easily matched to the template (not as much fudging).

I think variation (more or less scoop) has more to do with a specific player's needs than the various instruments. An agressive player sometimes likes a bit more scoop, for example.

I place the scoop dead center (of the length). doing so accurately requires that the end of the board is supported when planing. Player feedback, at least from my clients, tend to indicate that the tension "feels right" when this is done. Some place the deepest portion of the scoop slightly toward the nut. Can't say that's incorrect, just that I don't.

I start to test the flexibility of the board once it's a bit below 5 mm at the corners... Some boards will be OK until they are 4 mm or even less, others start to get rather springy at 4.5 or so. The set of the neck is also a factor.
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Jeffrey

http://holmesviolins.com

Michael Darnton · Posted: Wed Aug 13, 2008 8:11 am Post subject:

Scoop really isn't necessary for buzzing or string clearance--you can make a flat board, and it will work. It's for player comfort. If it's not there, players will complain that the central portion of the string feels loose and floppy. Consequently, I use scoop as an adjustment for the player, not a defined measurement. Most players, with most violins, are happy around the figures mentioned above.

Jack Rushing · Member Joined: 23 Mar 2007 Posts: 170

Gentlemen, Thank you for your clear, instructive, replies about the
finger board. I have often wondered why some violins seemed more
comfortable, and easier to play than others, but I never could put my
finger on it. (pun intended).
Your information will certainly be welcomed by amateur luthiers like me,
and players as well.

Michael Darnton · Posted: Wed Aug 13, 2008 5:07 pm Post subject:

Most people (including violin makers) think of adjustment as a tonal thing. Really, there are many, many things you can do to a violin to make it better or worse feeling to play that do influence the way you feel about the instrument--it's not all about tone.

When I do adjustments I spend a lot of time watching the player and his interaction with the instrument, looking for the times when he's showing a twinge of negative experience. Then I try to figure out where that came from, and make it go away. "Ease" of playing doesn't always only mean the instrument is responsive, though the player often won't realized that.