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Becky Senior Member
Joined: 09 Apr 2007 Posts: 83
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Posted: Mon Feb 09, 2009 9:50 pm Post subject: stuck plug and warped bow |
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Hi everyone,
I have 2 bow questions.
I have a Glasser bow with a plastic plug that is stuck. The head of the bow broke off and I'm trying to salvage the parts (the bow had recently been rehaired and the hair is still good). I've done minor bow work before but never encountered anything like this. Any suggestions on how to remove it? (I've tried tugging on the hair and also sticking a knife in at the sides of the plug but have not had success.)
Also, is there a way to fix a bow that bends out to the side? I have a bow like this--it's a really cheap bow that I figured would be safe to practice and learn on. No loss if I do more damage to it.
Thanks! |
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FiddleDoug Member
Joined: 08 Sep 2007 Posts: 227 Location: Hilton, NY
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Posted: Mon Feb 09, 2009 10:08 pm Post subject: Bow salvage |
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Becky,
You could probably carefully drill out enough of the plug to get it loose. The hair may end up being too short to use in another 4/4 bow, but you could save it for a 3/4. As for the warped bow, you can straighten it by heating the wood, and bending it over a curved block. The amount of heat, and the amount to bend it takes practice, and experience. This sounds like the perfect bow to practice on. Read up on it before doing the work. _________________ Doug Wall
www.wallindependent.com |
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Becky Senior Member
Joined: 09 Apr 2007 Posts: 83
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Posted: Mon Feb 09, 2009 10:23 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks for the advice Doug, I'll give it a try. I had the same thoughts as you on the hair length. Do you use the same amount of hair (in terms of thickness/strands of hair) for smaller violin bows as the larger size violin bows?
Any suggestions for good reading material on straightening bows? |
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FiddleDoug Member
Joined: 08 Sep 2007 Posts: 227 Location: Hilton, NY
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Posted: Tue Feb 10, 2009 8:49 am Post subject: |
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Becky,
I would ues a little less hair for smaller bows. I'm not an expert on this stuff.
I took a bow rehairing class with Lynn Hannings, at UNH, a couple of years ago, and have been doing some bow work since then. I don't have a lot of references on bow work, so someone else may have to cover that question.
For straightening, the key is to heat small areas at a time, slowly, so the heat goes deep into the wood. Heat the wood to the point where it's really too hot to hold, but short of the scorch point. Bend over a curved block, and hold over the block while it cools. Takes practice and patience. _________________ Doug Wall
www.wallindependent.com |
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Jack H. Super Member
Joined: 24 Mar 2007 Posts: 346 Location: Israel
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Posted: Tue Feb 10, 2009 10:05 am Post subject: |
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Small narrow chisel at the back part of the mortise should be able to remove it if it is not glued in.
If it does not budge then just cut it out.
As for the warped bow, it can be heated and re-bent. TO heat. remove varnish and run back and forth over an alcohol lamp turning constantly.
This needs to be done for at least 5 minutes to heat the area through and through. Then using the end of your work bench, bend it where it needs to be bent....
Bending a bow is not a willy nilly procedure. you do not want to burn the wood or break the bow and you want to make sure that the bow ends up having the right camber and straight from side to side.
I have a feeling this is an inexpensive bow, perhaps with red farnish on it....
Good luck.
J |
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Becky Senior Member
Joined: 09 Apr 2007 Posts: 83
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Posted: Wed Feb 18, 2009 10:30 pm Post subject: |
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Another bow, but the same problem with a stuck plug. (Just for the record, I've never had this much trouble with stuck plugs before.) I cut the plug out, but the plug had been glued in (not with hide glue, nor is it hardened rosin). There are some areas my knife can't reach to scrape off the glue completely. Is it ok to leave a little old glue in? If it all has to come out, do you have an suggestions on how to accomplish that.
Jack it is definitely a cheap bow. Those red varnish ones are horrid! |
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Jack H. Super Member
Joined: 24 Mar 2007 Posts: 346 Location: Israel
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Posted: Fri Mar 06, 2009 3:50 pm Post subject: |
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I have a very small and narrow chisel, well, actually a few of them that I use for bow work. one is specifically for aiding in the removal of spread wedges. others for cleaning out mortises and removing plugs.
I suggest getting a few small chisels ( or grinding them from old files or whatnot) and then using them to get into the mortise to remove the glue.
It will be a lot easier to fit a good plug if the mortise is clean!!!
I do not even bother with those red varnished bows! |
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ollieken Super Member
Joined: 26 Mar 2007 Posts: 281 Location: New Brunswick Canada
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Posted: Mon Mar 23, 2009 12:14 pm Post subject: Stuck plug |
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Becky I have had a few with glue on the plug I soak the plug with Alcohol
Methal hydrate works as well Let it soak for a five ten minutes hold the
tip or frog with the hair between your fingers give the hair a steady pull it should pop out be careful with the tip you dont want to break it That works for me try it on a practic bow Ken |
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Becky Senior Member
Joined: 09 Apr 2007 Posts: 83
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Posted: Mon Mar 23, 2009 2:07 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks for all the advice. I'm just getting into bow work and only working on practice bows so I'm not afraid of ruining them (but I'm trying not to). From what I've been gathering though, it sounds like the cheap bows are generally the hardest to work with and the nice bows are easier. I don't feel right learning on a nice bow, but I can't wait to move past these cheap ones! |
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Jack H. Super Member
Joined: 24 Mar 2007 Posts: 346 Location: Israel
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Posted: Mon Mar 23, 2009 3:55 pm Post subject: |
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Good Luck Becky!
After all my bravado about not working on them red painted bows... I had one in the shop last week...
Was from another maker who does not do bows and I did it as a paid favor... I will NEVER do it again!!!
Some idiot glued the abalone slide in... ended up breaking it out and fitting a new one... plus all the plugs were glued in too.NEVER AGAIN!!!
The big problems with the cheap bows are 1: weak sticks, not enough tension to help pull the hairs tight before it starts to straighten the bow, 2: Horribly shaped mortises that make it much harder to fit a good plug. |
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ollieken Super Member
Joined: 26 Mar 2007 Posts: 281 Location: New Brunswick Canada
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Posted: Mon Mar 23, 2009 10:06 pm Post subject: Re: Stuck plug |
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[quote="ollieken"]Becky I have had a few with glue on the plug I soak the plug with Alcohol
Methal hydrate works as well Let it soak for a five ten minutes hold the
tip or frog with the hair between your fingers give the hair a steady pull it should pop out be careful with the tip you dont want to break it That works for me try it on a practic bow also works on a glued slide Ken |
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Mat Roop Senior Member
Joined: 24 Mar 2007 Posts: 911 Location: Wyoming Ontario
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Posted: Sun Apr 12, 2009 8:38 am Post subject: |
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Hi Becky... I almost always chip out the old plug and cut a new one to fit just right... a lot easier and than trying to use the old... too often the old plug is dirty, marked up from chisels and sometimes too loose, and sometimes of the wrong kind of wood. If the new henk of hair is just a little thicker or thinner that the original, then the plug will not fit to be perfectly flush with the top of the tip liner. With a new plug the finished job is better fitting and more professional.... my two cents worth!
Cheers, Mat |
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ollieken Super Member
Joined: 26 Mar 2007 Posts: 281 Location: New Brunswick Canada
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Posted: Sun Apr 12, 2009 6:45 pm Post subject: Bow plug |
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You are Right Mat always make a new plug I make new ones & still
some times they dont fit & have to make another one also keeps your finger nails short I guess your suppose to file the plug eh . |
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Mat Roop Senior Member
Joined: 24 Mar 2007 Posts: 911 Location: Wyoming Ontario
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Posted: Mon Apr 13, 2009 1:03 am Post subject: |
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It is much easier to hold the plug with a pair of small vice grips that you can tighten just enough to hold the plug firm, then touch the plug to a power sanding disc...works well, gives good control and is quick and easy...especially after you practice some! The only thing I carve on a plug is the round contour on the bottom that touches the hank, and after final setting, I carefully slice the top of the plug off (with an extreme sharp angle chisel) to be perfectly flush with the tip liner.
Cheers... Mat |
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Jack H. Super Member
Joined: 24 Mar 2007 Posts: 346 Location: Israel
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Posted: Mon Apr 13, 2009 4:42 pm Post subject: |
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You are supposed to cut the plug with a sharp knife... |
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