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Jack Rushing
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Joined: 23 Mar 2007
Posts: 170
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 Posted: Sun Jun 10, 2007 7:00 pm Post subject: How Much Glue? |
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Some violins that I take apart, seems to have been glued heavily, while
others seem to have just a small narrow bead. What is the correct amount
to use when re-glueing the front and back? Do you always apply the glue
to both surfaces, or just one, and how wide do you make the glue strip?
this is assuming that the glue is the right thickness. Thanks |
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Jeffrey Holmes
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Joined: 03 Apr 2007
Posts: 90
Location: Ann Arbor
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| Posted: Sun Jun 10, 2007 11:29 pm Post subject: Re: How Much Glue? |
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| JacK Rushing wrote: | Some violins that I take apart, seems to have been glued heavily, while
others seem to have just a small narrow bead. What is the correct amount
to use when re-glueing the front and back? Do you always apply the glue
to both surfaces, or just one, and how wide do you make the glue strip?
this is assuming that the glue is the right thickness. Thanks |
Hi Jack;
Anything "wider" than the ribs/lining width or block surfaces really doesn't do anything but make a mess...
Weaker glue (thinned) is recommended when gluing on a top... unless your sure that the next person to open it will be someone you dislike and you don’t care if the fiddle suffers as well.  I apply to both surfaces... but when gluing back a top during a repair, I may elect (and often do. especially if I'm dealing with a 'cello) to glue it in sections. If that's the case, I apply glue only to the block areas, clamp it up, and remove clamps from the bouts, one at a time, slip in some glue, and re-clamp.
I use slightly stronger glue when attaching a back... but not too much stronger.
It doesn’t take a ton of glue. Just enough to cover the gluing surface will do it. Anything more will squeeze out somewhere… and it’s hard to clean off anything that squeezes inside the fiddle.
Remember, one of the things about violins (that contributes to their longevity) is that when the body plates expand or contract, the seams (if they aren't welded in place) will open to alleviate the stress. If they hold fast when stress is present, cracks occur in the plates. I’d suggest that, since gluing a seam is relatively simple, I’d rather see you err on the side of too weak rather than too strong when re-attaching a plate.
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Jeffrey
http://holmesviolins.com |
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Jack Rushing
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Joined: 23 Mar 2007
Posts: 170
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| Posted: Mon Jun 11, 2007 12:32 am Post subject: |
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Jeffrey, I have thought about gluing in sections before, to keep the glue from getting cold, before I covered all the surfaces, but was kind of
hesitant to do so because I was afraid I would be unable to get glue in the
tight places after you glue the blocks. What do you do, wedge the plates
open a little, and use a small, thin blade to work the glue in?
Thanks, JacK |
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jessupe goldastini
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Joined: 25 Apr 2007
Posts: 169
Location: sana' rafaela'
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| Posted: Mon Jun 11, 2007 2:43 am Post subject: |
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| The thickness or stregnth is not related to making it difficult to remove or not, but is more related to a bad temp/humidity swing wich would in effect break the glue joint vrs not giving and having the top split....repairing a seem is much easier than a split.... |
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MANFIO
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Joined: 11 Apr 2007
Posts: 458
Location: Sao Paulo
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Jeffrey Holmes
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Joined: 03 Apr 2007
Posts: 90
Location: Ann Arbor
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| Posted: Mon Jun 11, 2007 10:26 am Post subject: |
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| JacK Rushing wrote: | Jeffrey, I have thought about gluing in sections before, to keep the glue from getting cold, before I covered all the surfaces, but was kind of
hesitant to do so because I was afraid I would be unable to get glue in the
tight places after you glue the blocks. What do you do, wedge the plates
open a little, and use a small, thin blade to work the glue in?
Thanks, JacK |
If you use a very thin palate knife, you'll be able to get pretty close to the blocks. A gentle "wiggle" (pumping of the plate) will send the glue in the rest of the way... capillary action.
jessupe; I'd say it's both.
Manfio: Agreed about glue that's too thin, especially when making a new instrument... but glue being absorbed by the wood and starving the joint (leaving little or nothing on the surface) really isn't as much of an issue if one is re-attaching a plate that has been glued before. The surfaces are already "sized".
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Jeffrey
http://holmesviolins.com |
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Jack H.
Super Member
Joined: 24 Mar 2007
Posts: 346
Location: Israel
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| Posted: Mon Jun 11, 2007 3:05 pm Post subject: |
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| JacK Rushing wrote: | Jeffrey, I have thought about gluing in sections before, to keep the glue from getting cold, before I covered all the surfaces, but was kind of
hesitant to do so because I was afraid I would be unable to get glue in the
tight places after you glue the blocks. What do you do, wedge the plates
open a little, and use a small, thin blade to work the glue in?
Thanks, JacK |
Hey Jack.
Jeffrey is right, you really only want a small bead of glue, enough to sit on the lining and rib.
as for gluing in sections, sometimes it is what you have to do, as in basses.l Heck even with 2 people working you have to glue in sections.
The french are known for applying glue ot the ribs and linings and then just closing the instrument then clamping.
Much better to have it all clamped in place with the propper extension and then glue the blocks and then the bouts.
Jack |
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MANFIO
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Posts: 458
Location: Sao Paulo
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Mat Roop
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