Violin Forum/Message Board

John Cadd · Posted: Wed Dec 29, 2010 9:21 pm Post subject:

I think for a newer maker it`s best to take the advice and avoid machinery if possible. Just use a machine only if a blade edge is well out of shape. For a wide gouge cut along the end of a piece of soft wood with the blade upside down.first. Cut from middle towards the end to get the rough shape corresponding to the steel. Work away the bits either side till you have a curve to sharpen the inner bevel. Coat the wood with chromium polish. Clamp the clean end in a vice.The messy end towards the right (for right handers ).Then draw the blade across the curve --- twisting --- as you move left to right. Always draw the edge backwards or it will dig in . .That will polish the edge to a mirror finish. Be careful .This will get very sharp ..Test the sharpness on the edge of some newspaper . That is the final stage. Try to get a situation where you move the tool ( backwards ) instead of moving the sharpener. Keep your hands behind the blade . That will save you getting seriously cut.

sdantonio · Posted: Thu Dec 30, 2010 7:58 am Post subject:

It is very useful, thank you. I also just picked up Lee's complete guide to sharpening cited earlier in this thread which will help too.

Thank you
Happy New Year,
Steven

John Cadd · Posted: Thu Dec 30, 2010 10:45 am Post subject:

You might like some of these tips for sharpening Plane blades. One type of edge , for the centre join , needs to have a straight across edge. For rougher planing a slight curve works well. I use a clamp on roller to get the correct angle of the edge. The roller can be altered to work inside a frame.This frame holds the oilstone and has parrallel surfaces either side for the rollers to run on.The clamp roller is used upside down with an extra axle and two runner wheels fitted. The runner wheels are much wider apart which gives stability.That is ideal to shape a straight edge. Always taper off the very edges of the blade.This stops digging in.
The curved edge is formed by putting 2 thick shavings under diagonally opposite corners of the oilstone. As the blade moves forward it rubs on the Right side of the oilstone. At the centre the stone starts to tilt more level.Then past halfway it begins to rub the left side of the stone.The final blade shape is a fine even curve.
The fastest cutting stones are soft waterstones .They can be dressed flat and accurate by using a diamond sharpening stone .
I mentioned that ( from a magazine ) as it is an elegant combination of ancient and new technology. Of course you can use the diamond on it`s own but the other idea is interesting.