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How far with the soundpost?

 
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Sibemol
Junior Member


Joined: 01 Jan 2008
Posts: 13
Location: Brazil

PostPosted: Wed Jan 19, 2011 9:42 pm    Post subject: How far with the soundpost? Reply with quote

Some literature I have seen suggest the starting point to place a violin soundpost as 1 mm inside [under the E string] and 2.5 mm back from the right feet of the bridge. "Starting point" means that it can be [and sometimes must be] moved to different points in order to achieve the best result. I am extremely habilidous and have some basic tools, so that I can do it myself in my humble violin. But I'm not a luthier and thus I don't have the necessary experience to perceive clearly what's the best result. Then, my question is how far from the bridge I can go whit the soundpost, against the tailpiece and how much in the left/right directions, since I have seen a musician's violin in which the soundpost is placed around 8~10 mm back and alongside [if not out] of the bridge feet. My purpose is to improve the ressonance of the A and E strings and my soundpost is around 4mm back of the bridge.

Regards
Arlindo
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rs
Member


Joined: 14 Jan 2009
Posts: 188
Location: Holland, Michigan

PostPosted: Thu Jan 20, 2011 1:09 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I will throw in my observations. There is no "set spot" for a post, but these ideas might help:

The two most important things to keep in mind is to not fit the post too tight as cramming a post can cause sound post cracks. They generally have to be crammed pretty tight for that to happen, but a too tight post will hamper the tone anyway so too tight is best avoided. The best tightness is the post nudged into position where if you squeeze the "C" bouts without strings, the post will fall. The second is to fit the post where there is even contact top and bottom all around the post. If these two practices are carried out, the rest is trial and error.

Generally, the closer to the bridge the "brighter" the tone, but not always. The further from the bridge, the "mellower", but not always. The closer towards the E string, the more intense the E, but not always. The closer towards the A string the more intense the A, but not always. 4 mm is a good starting spot. I have fooled with them where directly underneath the bridge was the best spot to about 12 mm out from the bridge was the best spot. It just depends.

Two things I will add that I don't remember comments on. First is that the location of the post greatly changes the tone of a poor instrument, but moving it doesn't change a fine instrument very much often times. Second is that if a post is moved around a lot, this movement can induce a wolf note into the violin that is a pistol to fix. I had this happen to me two different times and both times on the E string.

My recommendation is once you find the spot you like, don't fool with it anymore.

These are just my observations.
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Randall Shenefelt
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Jack H.
Super Member


Joined: 24 Mar 2007
Posts: 346
Location: Israel

PostPosted: Thu Jan 20, 2011 3:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Might help if you mention what you don't like about the sound of your violin.
Also you must take into account that it sounds different under your ear as you play as opposed to hearing it from a distance, even a small one.
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Jack Rushing
Member


Joined: 23 Mar 2007
Posts: 170

PostPosted: Thu Jan 20, 2011 9:00 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'll agree with Jack H. about the sound. I usually keep two or three
violins strung up to practice on, and I am always diddling around with
them, making adjustments, here and there, trying to get the best tone
out of them. Usually, the one that I think sounds best that day, actually
sounds worse to the wife in another room. The one she picks out as best
sounds scratchy and high pitched to me. I don't think one can have it
both ways. At least, I never have been able to.
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Mat Roop
Senior Member


Joined: 24 Mar 2007
Posts: 911
Location: Wyoming Ontario

PostPosted: Fri Jan 21, 2011 12:08 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Arlindo... remember that too much fiddling can damage the underside of the top. So if you are making ajustments, you need to be sure the post moves easily and does not bind or jam. Usually for moving more that 2 or 3 mm you will need another soundpost fit for that location... tedious work, but when you hit the right spot, it becomes rewarding... Cheers & good luck.... Mat
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