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ghammond Member
Joined: 22 Jan 2011 Posts: 42
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Posted: Mon Feb 07, 2011 11:12 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks Don,
I see a post on this forum called "What do you guys think of these gouges?" There's some good info there. |
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ghammond Member
Joined: 22 Jan 2011 Posts: 42
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Posted: Thu Feb 10, 2011 1:13 am Post subject: |
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OK, so I have officially purchased a new antique hand grinding wheel off of ebay, along with some Buck Bros chisels. Hopefully they're good tools. We'll see.
I do have 2 questions:
1. Does anyone have a suggestion about where to purchase a replacement wheel?
Would this one due?
http://www.amazon.com/Norton-Pedestal-Abrasive-Straight-Thickness/dp/B001DSZ7QU/ref=pd_sim_sbs_hi_5
2. What grit should the wheel be for sharpening chisels?
Thanks again everyone!
-G |
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DonLeister Moderator
Joined: 29 Mar 2007 Posts: 383 Location: Richmond, VA
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DonLeister Moderator
Joined: 29 Mar 2007 Posts: 383 Location: Richmond, VA
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Posted: Thu Feb 10, 2011 5:58 pm Post subject: |
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If you want to see a guy roughing out a top and back, check this out. He has some other interesting videos too, I think it is an industry promo kind of video more than a 'how to'.
http://www.youtube.com/user/sasakivn#p/u/10/ksMLyuFKRMA |
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DonLeister Moderator
Joined: 29 Mar 2007 Posts: 383 Location: Richmond, VA
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Posted: Sat Feb 12, 2011 5:03 pm Post subject: |
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I checke d the type of grinding wheel I have and it is made by Camel or CGW, it is 6"x1-1/2x1/2 the type is WA 120-I-V, so I think it is a 120 grit. |
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ghammond Member
Joined: 22 Jan 2011 Posts: 42
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Posted: Tue Feb 15, 2011 8:18 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks for all this information everyone!!
The video of the guy roughing out the back is good. It gives you a sense of what-alls involved.
I checked out the georgiagrindingwheel site. Some good info there for sure! Thanks for sharing it with me!
...
So, my wheel came in! The wheel turns, although it does seem to be a bit wobbly when turning, which is probably not ideal. There's this tricky space between the gear mechanisms that I'll have to fill in somehow. I think I might be able to do this with a washer or something.
Then I was talking to my father the other day and he said that he actually already had a hand operated grinder! So now I have two. His grinder actually seems a bit better than the one I purchased, because it doesn't have this wobbly motion to it. |
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ghammond Member
Joined: 22 Jan 2011 Posts: 42
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Posted: Tue Feb 15, 2011 8:47 pm Post subject: |
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Also, does anyone have experience with the gouges offered through Lee Valley?
http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=30024&cat=1,41504
I've seen Lee Valley mentioned here and there on this forum, so I suppose they are a reputable tool maker. The description of the gouges sounded pretty good with a hardness of "Rc57-59".
Mind you, I have no idea what that means exactly, but it does sound impressive. |
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DonLeister Moderator
Joined: 29 Mar 2007 Posts: 383 Location: Richmond, VA
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Posted: Tue Feb 15, 2011 11:19 pm Post subject: |
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I think you want harder, but I'm not that knowledgeable about the numbers. |
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Michael Darnton Moderator
Joined: 23 Mar 2007 Posts: 1286 Location: Chicago
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cmkaco Junior Member
Joined: 07 Feb 2011 Posts: 24 Location: US
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Posted: Wed Feb 16, 2011 10:26 am Post subject: |
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This has probably already been covered, but since we are talking about it here, how are the Pfeil, Stubai and Dastra gouges? I have some of each. I have read that the Pfeil don't seem to hold an edge when working maple. I really love my Pfeil gouges, because the steel seems to sharpen really well and holds an edge, at least in basswood, which I know is not as hard as maple. The Dastra seems like much harder steel, but just doesn't fell the same.
As far as the term "firmer" some people use this to mean out cannel or bevel on the back, and some people use it to mean a very sturdy tool. I would think that out cannel tools would be better for carving scrolls than in cannel. I would not think that you need very sturdy, heavy bladed tools for violin making, but I could be wrong. Would somebody with more violin making experience please comment. Thanks. |
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ghammond Member
Joined: 22 Jan 2011 Posts: 42
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Posted: Wed Feb 16, 2011 11:47 am Post subject: |
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Thank Mike!
I will get these Japanese gouges then. I'm glad I asked!
Which sizes would you recommend that I purchase for carving the violin? My budget is only going to allow for 3 chisels.
Should I get the spoon type, or the straight type?
Thanks again!
-G |
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Michael Darnton Moderator
Joined: 23 Mar 2007 Posts: 1286 Location: Chicago
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Posted: Wed Feb 16, 2011 12:44 pm Post subject: |
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I dumped my Pfeil gouges--too soft. They sharpen well because of that, but it doesn't last at all in hard woods. My knife tips bent (they should at least be hard enough to break, not bend). I have a full set of Dastra gouges for scroll carving, and once they're sharp they rarely need any touching up. My knives are all either HSS or Japanese laminated. Harder steel is harder to learn to sharpen, but once it's sharp, it stays that way for a very long time.
Tool sharpening is something people in my summer workshops consistently have trouble with. I would say that the most common problems come from pushing too hard, and being sloppy in the honing. If I see someone quickly sharpening with a lot of movement, I know their tools can't possibly be sharp.
Most people really have no idea what sharp is. Sharp isn't when you can shave hairs off your arm--you can do that by rubbing with a rock. Sharp is when you can cut the hairs halfway up, in the air, not against the skin. _________________ new blog at my site! http://darntonviolins.com/blog
my work sites: http://darntonviolins.com and http://darntonhersh.com |
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ghammond Member
Joined: 22 Jan 2011 Posts: 42
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Posted: Wed Feb 16, 2011 4:47 pm Post subject: |
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OK, I think I'm going to go with:
3/4" spoon gouge
5/8" straight gouge
1" straight gouge
At least for my first violin. I might find out that I need others later... We'll see! |
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cmkaco Junior Member
Joined: 07 Feb 2011 Posts: 24 Location: US
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Posted: Wed Feb 16, 2011 5:05 pm Post subject: |
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I am sure Michael Darnton can advise if I am wrong (and from looking at his collection of tools, I think he will agree with me) but I don't think the spoon gouge is the way to go.
A few years back, I took a one week long wood carving class (not related to violin making) from a top professional wood carver. This man is classically trained in Europe and does architectual wood carving for high paying clients. We were going over tool selection and I asked him about spoon bent gouges. He said we have one of those here in the shop, and I will show you how we use it. Later on, during a coffee break he showed me to the coffee machine and the creamer. Inside the creamer cannister was the spoon bent gouge. He told me that was the only legitimate use he could find for it.
By the way, Mr. Darnton, can you please tell me what size gouges (sweep and width) and chisels you have that are most useful for scroll carving? Some sites list just sweep 6 (I think the Dastra are all 6) and other list all sweeps. Are there certain sizes that are the most used? Thank you so much for your help and advice. |
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ghammond Member
Joined: 22 Jan 2011 Posts: 42
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