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oldguy Junior Member
Joined: 16 Jan 2011 Posts: 20 Location: Fort Qu'Appelle Sask
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Posted: Mon Jan 17, 2011 12:31 pm Post subject: violin finishes |
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I just purchased a violin kit from the US and would like to know if I can use any other finishes other than traditional varnish. Maybe regular stain and tung oil from the hardware store. Would this type of finish affect the sound? |
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rs Member
Joined: 14 Jan 2009 Posts: 188 Location: Holland, Michigan
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Posted: Mon Jan 17, 2011 2:02 pm Post subject: |
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I would not use oil or oil varnish of any kind directly on the wood. It soaks into the wood and never "dries", well at least in the next decade or so. The effect on the tone is the same as wrapping the violin in rubber.
I am not a believer in stain as this is absorbed irregularly at the corner area and ends, especially on the spruce. The reason is that those areas have more open grain simply because of the angle the wood is cut there. Violins that are stained end up showing this shadow and are easy to spot as being stained or appear to have been chemically stripped as stripping a varnish will do the same thing. _________________ Randall Shenefelt |
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John Cadd Super Member
Joined: 23 Jul 2009 Posts: 819 Location: Hoylake
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Posted: Mon Jan 17, 2011 2:48 pm Post subject: |
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If you are building a kit you may like to look at a short version of varnishing which is thin and the colour instructions are very clear. Enter Amac Violins Varnish. The maker referred to is Alfio Batelli and they tell you who sells the stuff and how to apply it. It seems a good way to get your kit working without all the sticky pitfalls of varnish. I made the mistake with one supplier.The varnish faded after all the work and would not dry. When I complained the lady said --"Oh, sorry about that.The supplier has died." There is also a way to apply varnish called the Pad Process. That is described in the Magister site. Lots to read there , but too much for the first effort I think. |
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oldguy Junior Member
Joined: 16 Jan 2011 Posts: 20 Location: Fort Qu'Appelle Sask
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Posted: Mon Jan 17, 2011 9:07 pm Post subject: violin finishes |
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Thanks for the response. I live in Canada so getting varnish shipped from the US is not going to happen. I am going to try to find the Grumbacher varnish locally. I any one else has any suggestions I would love to hear them. |
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actonern Super Member
Joined: 15 Aug 2007 Posts: 444
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Posted: Mon Jan 17, 2011 9:13 pm Post subject: |
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If I've learned anything over the years observing the often heated debates about violin varnish it that:
1. Any approach that is endorsed by one will be anathema to another.
2. Experts disagree as per above.
Now I firmly believe that... |
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bata Member
Joined: 12 Jan 2011 Posts: 30 Location: Ontario
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Posted: Tue Jan 18, 2011 11:36 am Post subject: |
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Hi Oldguy,
I also live in Canada, Ontario, and have been using varnish sold by George Heinl out of Toronto:- http://www.georgeheinl.com/ with very good results.
It comes in a range of colours from amber to dark brown. I believe they get it from Italy. It flows on very well, is thin and dries quickly, within 24 hours without a light box. (I would allow at least a couple of days or more if I were going to give it a light sanding between coats.) This of course is applied over a ground or sealing. It dries to a high gloss smooth finish.
When you get into the world of violin grounds, sealings, varnish and finishes you will be debating the subject for ever.
Have fun..bata |
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Mat Roop Senior Member
Joined: 24 Mar 2007 Posts: 911 Location: Wyoming Ontario
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Posted: Thu Jan 20, 2011 11:55 pm Post subject: |
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Hey Old Guy.... here is a link to great varnish in Canada...
http://violins.ca/varnish/violin_varnish.html
And for my money I stay away from Spirit varnish... Oil based is much more forgiving and workable.
Cheers, Mat |
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Dave Chandler Super Member
Joined: 31 Oct 2007 Posts: 691 Location: Mt Mitchell in North Carolina
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Posted: Sat Jan 22, 2011 1:15 am Post subject: Varnish |
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But before you apply any of these varnishes, you might want to think about a ground coat.
There are as many opinions about ground material as there are varnishes, and most will work.
I use Bullseye brand shellac from the hardware store, thin it with denatured alcohol, also available at the hardware or paint stores. Then wipe it onto the surface everywhere but the neck region.
I use a 1 pound dilution. I think its 2 pound out of the can, and I think it calls for 5 parts alcohol to 3 parts shellac to bring it to a one pound solution. Check the can, it may be that is the directions to go from 3 lbs to 2 lbs, but you've get the idea, you need to get it down to 1 lb or less.
Easy to work with, does a nice job of keeping the varnish out of the pores, doesn't raise the grain. Dry in minutes. Good adherence for your oil varnish. You can get the shellac in amber or clear. I've used both, but you might go for the clear because it lessens the chance of soaking too much of the amber color into the endgrains. _________________ Dave in the Blue Ridge
Southern Violin Association
"Success is the ability to go from one failure to the next with no loss of enthusiasm" Winston Churchill
"I took the road less travelled, and now I don't know where I am." Marco Polo |
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oldguy Junior Member
Joined: 16 Jan 2011 Posts: 20 Location: Fort Qu'Appelle Sask
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Posted: Thu Feb 03, 2011 1:10 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks for all the responses. I will ponder over what to do. I am only at the point of gluing the top on so I have a little time to think about the finish. |
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