View previous topic :: View next topic |
Author |
Message |
kjb Super Member
Joined: 06 Feb 2013 Posts: 385
|
Posted: Sat Mar 30, 2013 8:30 am Post subject: ream pegs before varnish |
|
|
just wondering if it is better to ream/fit the pegs before varnish, or does it make a difference? |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Michael Darnton Moderator
Joined: 23 Mar 2007 Posts: 1281 Location: Chicago
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
Chet Bishop Super Member
Joined: 23 Mar 2007 Posts: 678 Location: Forest Grove, Oregon
|
Posted: Sat Mar 30, 2013 12:22 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Since I know the varnish will get into the holes (and the holes will cause sags in the varnish), I only drill very small pilot holes, using a drill press, prior to carving the scroll, so that the holes are already in place.
They do not affect the varnish, and I don't care if varnish gets into them: then I can open them up after varnishing, and have completely clean holes, ready for pegs, as Michael says. _________________ Chet Bishop
https://bluefiddles.com
https://fivestringfiddles.com |
|
Back to top |
|
|
kjb Super Member
Joined: 06 Feb 2013 Posts: 385
|
Posted: Sat Mar 30, 2013 12:51 pm Post subject: |
|
|
I am glad that I asked, I have pre drilled my holes. larger than pinhole but still small. So I will leave them at that |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Michael Darnton Moderator
Joined: 23 Mar 2007 Posts: 1281 Location: Chicago
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
Chet Bishop Super Member
Joined: 23 Mar 2007 Posts: 678 Location: Forest Grove, Oregon
|
Posted: Sat Mar 30, 2013 2:25 pm Post subject: |
|
|
"It helps to get them straight if you can do it then, rather than after the scroll is finished."
Boy, does it!
A couple of times I tried drilling the holes after varnishing, because one of my teachers does it that way. My eye was not as good as his, and I ended up having to bush, redrill and re-ream.
Now I do the pilots while the block is square. _________________ Chet Bishop
https://bluefiddles.com
https://fivestringfiddles.com |
|
Back to top |
|
|
L P Reedy Super Member
Joined: 02 Apr 2009 Posts: 276 Location: Brevard, NC
|
Posted: Sat Mar 30, 2013 6:34 pm Post subject: |
|
|
I partially ream the holes before varnishing but never completely. If I need to set up for test playing (rare, but it has happened) I use old undersize pegs so that I can still ream a little after varnishing is completed.
I now even use a drill press after installing bushings. Saves me a lot of frustration. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Chet Bishop Super Member
Joined: 23 Mar 2007 Posts: 678 Location: Forest Grove, Oregon
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
ctviolin Super Member
Joined: 07 May 2009 Posts: 961 Location: Roswell
|
Posted: Sat Mar 30, 2013 7:07 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Michael Darnton wrote: | I do like Chet--drill holes while the block is still square, but drill them small. It helps to get them straight if you can do it then, rather than after the scroll is finished. |
Yes, I do the same thing.
and when I have neck/scroll tapered blocks to sart with (which I most often do) I'll add wood to the sides and saw them into square sides before drawing the outline, drilling the holes, or carving the scroll.
Believe it or not, it effects the scroll & holes if you carve it according to a template outline that isn't at 90 degrees to the flat fb board mounting surface.
I'm probably being a bit too critical by doing this - but that's what I do anyway.
Oh and as far as the original question goes - I drill the pilot holes when in the (square) block phase, and the final tapered holes after the varnish dries... _________________ Look,
Listen,
Learn.
Last edited by ctviolin on Wed Apr 03, 2013 7:35 am; edited 1 time in total |
|
Back to top |
|
|
L P Reedy Super Member
Joined: 02 Apr 2009 Posts: 276 Location: Brevard, NC
|
Posted: Sat Mar 30, 2013 7:19 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Chet,
Hard to describe, but I clamp the fiddle on edge to a board, making sure it doesn't tilt sideways. I use a lab jack (haven't yet found anything cheaper) and a piece of scrap spruce under the scroll to level it and provide backing for the drill. If the neck is set pretty straight I adjust the ridge in the fluting the same height as the center of the end pin above the board. The board is clamped to the drill press table in the proper place for each hole, then the whole thing is moved for the next one. The scroll doesn't have to be clamped securely as long as you have a free hand to control it. Even if the holes are not perfectly aligned with the scroll or the body (whichever you prefer) they are at least parallel to each other and usually much better than the originals. I use a 7/32" brad point drill and have not had to make any corrections yet. Much different from the past.
Last edited by L P Reedy on Sat Mar 30, 2013 7:20 pm; edited 1 time in total |
|
Back to top |
|
|
ctviolin Super Member
Joined: 07 May 2009 Posts: 961 Location: Roswell
|
Posted: Sat Mar 30, 2013 7:19 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Chet Bishop wrote: | How do you hold the scroll, securely, so as to present it to the drill at 90 deg.? |
See my post above.
drilling the holes (pilot holes) in the SQUARE raw block - to me, is the simplest answer. _________________ Look,
Listen,
Learn. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
L P Reedy Super Member
Joined: 02 Apr 2009 Posts: 276 Location: Brevard, NC
|
Posted: Sat Mar 30, 2013 7:23 pm Post subject: |
|
|
CT, I think Chet was asking about drilling holes in bushings. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
ctviolin Super Member
Joined: 07 May 2009 Posts: 961 Location: Roswell
|
Posted: Sat Mar 30, 2013 8:07 pm Post subject: |
|
|
L P Reedy wrote: | CT, I think Chet was asking about drilling holes in bushings. |
(oops!) _________________ Look,
Listen,
Learn. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Chet Bishop Super Member
Joined: 23 Mar 2007 Posts: 678 Location: Forest Grove, Oregon
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
mikemolnar Member
Joined: 30 Mar 2007 Posts: 57
|
Posted: Wed Apr 03, 2013 8:17 am Post subject: |
|
|
I follow Darnton's system. Works nicely. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
|