Violin Forum/Message Board Forum Index Violin Forum/Message Board
Provided by Violin Vision
 
 FAQFAQ   SearchSearch   MemberlistMemberlist   UsergroupsUsergroups   RegisterRegister 
 ProfileProfile   Log in to check your private messagesLog in to check your private messages   Log inLog in 

ream pegs before varnish
Goto page 1, 2  Next
 
Post new topic   Reply to topic    Violin Forum/Message Board Forum Index -> Violin Making and Restoration Forum
View previous topic :: View next topic  
Author Message
kjb
Super Member


Joined: 06 Feb 2013
Posts: 385

PostPosted: Sat Mar 30, 2013 8:30 am    Post subject: ream pegs before varnish Reply with quote

just wondering if it is better to ream/fit the pegs before varnish, or does it make a difference?
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Michael Darnton
Moderator


Joined: 23 Mar 2007
Posts: 1281
Location: Chicago

PostPosted: Sat Mar 30, 2013 10:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I prefer later, to ream out any varnish that dripped into the holes.
_________________
new blog at my site! http://darntonviolins.com/blog
my work sites: http://darntonviolins.com and http://darntonhersh.com
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website
Chet Bishop
Super Member


Joined: 23 Mar 2007
Posts: 678
Location: Forest Grove, Oregon

PostPosted: Sat Mar 30, 2013 12:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Since I know the varnish will get into the holes (and the holes will cause sags in the varnish), I only drill very small pilot holes, using a drill press, prior to carving the scroll, so that the holes are already in place.

They do not affect the varnish, and I don't care if varnish gets into them: then I can open them up after varnishing, and have completely clean holes, ready for pegs, as Michael says.
_________________
Chet Bishop
https://bluefiddles.com
https://fivestringfiddles.com
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
kjb
Super Member


Joined: 06 Feb 2013
Posts: 385

PostPosted: Sat Mar 30, 2013 12:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am glad that I asked, I have pre drilled my holes. larger than pinhole but still small. So I will leave them at that
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Michael Darnton
Moderator


Joined: 23 Mar 2007
Posts: 1281
Location: Chicago

PostPosted: Sat Mar 30, 2013 1:05 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I do like Chet--drill holes while the block is still square, but drill them small. It helps to get them straight if you can do it then, rather than after the scroll is finished.
_________________
new blog at my site! http://darntonviolins.com/blog
my work sites: http://darntonviolins.com and http://darntonhersh.com
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website
Chet Bishop
Super Member


Joined: 23 Mar 2007
Posts: 678
Location: Forest Grove, Oregon

PostPosted: Sat Mar 30, 2013 2:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

"It helps to get them straight if you can do it then, rather than after the scroll is finished."

Boy, does it!

A couple of times I tried drilling the holes after varnishing, because one of my teachers does it that way. My eye was not as good as his, and I ended up having to bush, redrill and re-ream.

Now I do the pilots while the block is square.
_________________
Chet Bishop
https://bluefiddles.com
https://fivestringfiddles.com
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
L P Reedy
Super Member


Joined: 02 Apr 2009
Posts: 276
Location: Brevard, NC

PostPosted: Sat Mar 30, 2013 6:34 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I partially ream the holes before varnishing but never completely. If I need to set up for test playing (rare, but it has happened) I use old undersize pegs so that I can still ream a little after varnishing is completed.

I now even use a drill press after installing bushings. Saves me a lot of frustration.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
Chet Bishop
Super Member


Joined: 23 Mar 2007
Posts: 678
Location: Forest Grove, Oregon

PostPosted: Sat Mar 30, 2013 6:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

How do you hold the scroll, securely, so as to present it to the drill at 90 deg.?
_________________
Chet Bishop
https://bluefiddles.com
https://fivestringfiddles.com
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
ctviolin
Super Member


Joined: 07 May 2009
Posts: 961
Location: Roswell

PostPosted: Sat Mar 30, 2013 7:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Michael Darnton wrote:
I do like Chet--drill holes while the block is still square, but drill them small. It helps to get them straight if you can do it then, rather than after the scroll is finished.


Yes, I do the same thing.
and when I have neck/scroll tapered blocks to sart with (which I most often do) I'll add wood to the sides and saw them into square sides before drawing the outline, drilling the holes, or carving the scroll.

Believe it or not, it effects the scroll & holes if you carve it according to a template outline that isn't at 90 degrees to the flat fb board mounting surface.

I'm probably being a bit too critical by doing this - but that's what I do anyway.

Oh and as far as the original question goes - I drill the pilot holes when in the (square) block phase, and the final tapered holes after the varnish dries...
_________________
Look,
Listen,
Learn.


Last edited by ctviolin on Wed Apr 03, 2013 7:35 am; edited 1 time in total
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
L P Reedy
Super Member


Joined: 02 Apr 2009
Posts: 276
Location: Brevard, NC

PostPosted: Sat Mar 30, 2013 7:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Chet,

Hard to describe, but I clamp the fiddle on edge to a board, making sure it doesn't tilt sideways. I use a lab jack (haven't yet found anything cheaper) and a piece of scrap spruce under the scroll to level it and provide backing for the drill. If the neck is set pretty straight I adjust the ridge in the fluting the same height as the center of the end pin above the board. The board is clamped to the drill press table in the proper place for each hole, then the whole thing is moved for the next one. The scroll doesn't have to be clamped securely as long as you have a free hand to control it. Even if the holes are not perfectly aligned with the scroll or the body (whichever you prefer) they are at least parallel to each other and usually much better than the originals. I use a 7/32" brad point drill and have not had to make any corrections yet. Much different from the past.


Last edited by L P Reedy on Sat Mar 30, 2013 7:20 pm; edited 1 time in total
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
ctviolin
Super Member


Joined: 07 May 2009
Posts: 961
Location: Roswell

PostPosted: Sat Mar 30, 2013 7:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Chet Bishop wrote:
How do you hold the scroll, securely, so as to present it to the drill at 90 deg.?


See my post above.
drilling the holes (pilot holes) in the SQUARE raw block - to me, is the simplest answer.
_________________
Look,
Listen,
Learn.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
L P Reedy
Super Member


Joined: 02 Apr 2009
Posts: 276
Location: Brevard, NC

PostPosted: Sat Mar 30, 2013 7:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

CT, I think Chet was asking about drilling holes in bushings.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message
ctviolin
Super Member


Joined: 07 May 2009
Posts: 961
Location: Roswell

PostPosted: Sat Mar 30, 2013 8:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

L P Reedy wrote:
CT, I think Chet was asking about drilling holes in bushings.


(oops!)
_________________
Look,
Listen,
Learn.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
Chet Bishop
Super Member


Joined: 23 Mar 2007
Posts: 678
Location: Forest Grove, Oregon

PostPosted: Sat Mar 30, 2013 8:31 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

L P Reedy wrote:
Chet,

Hard to describe.


Thanks, Lyle.
_________________
Chet Bishop
https://bluefiddles.com
https://fivestringfiddles.com
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Visit poster's website
mikemolnar
Member


Joined: 30 Mar 2007
Posts: 57

PostPosted: Wed Apr 03, 2013 8:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I follow Darnton's system. Works nicely.
Back to top
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
Display posts from previous:   
Post new topic   Reply to topic    Violin Forum/Message Board Forum Index -> Violin Making and Restoration Forum All times are GMT - 4 Hours
Goto page 1, 2  Next
Page 1 of 2

 
Jump to:  
You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot vote in polls in this forum


Powered by phpBB © 2001, 2005 phpBB Group