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End pin shaping
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Mikes
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Joined: 28 Mar 2007
Posts: 80
Location: Vermont, USA

PostPosted: Sat Mar 30, 2013 4:42 pm    Post subject: End pin shaping Reply with quote

Ok so I've shaped about a dozen end pin and after each one I end up with blisters on both thumbs and pointer fingers from holding onto the pin while turning it in the shaper. I have an end pin vice but the pins just end up spinning during the process. So what are some tips for shaping pins with out the pain?
Thanks much
Mike Spencer
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Michael Darnton
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Joined: 23 Mar 2007
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Location: Chicago

PostPosted: Sat Mar 30, 2013 5:03 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I made a special vise to hold the pin, and wetting it helps it stick in the holder.
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fjodor
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Joined: 28 Jan 2013
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 30, 2013 6:22 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It can help to put a small rubber ring in the bottom of the vice to provide more friction against the end pin and prevent it from spinning.
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L P Reedy
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Joined: 02 Apr 2009
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PostPosted: Sat Mar 30, 2013 6:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mikes, which type of end pin holder do you have? I have two, both home made. One is nice looking and holds the pin by direct pressure from a bolt (I think Howard Core sells them) but almost always slips. The other is similar to the one International Violin sells but made of wood. It can be safely tightened enough (with a wrench) to work reliably. The first one can be tightened enough to destroy the end pin but still slip.

I also use the second one to remove stuck end pins. Works almost every time.

Edit: Just tried the rubber idea and it worked. I had tried leather without success, so I now have a choice.
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fjodor
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 31, 2013 4:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Glad it worked with the rubber. To avoid confusion; this is the kind of vise I'm talking about.

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Mikes
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Joined: 28 Mar 2007
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Location: Vermont, USA

PostPosted: Sun Mar 31, 2013 8:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I have the steel split type that squeezes from the side but that brass one looks like a much better design. Sounds like I need a trip to the hardware store to see what kind of rubber washers or O rings might work. I'll try the wetting trick too. Thanks for the ideas.
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DonLeister
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Joined: 29 Mar 2007
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Location: Richmond, VA

PostPosted: Sun Mar 31, 2013 7:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I made this which has never failed me. It is modeled after one made by Michael Darnton.

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ctviolin
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Joined: 07 May 2009
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Location: Roswell

PostPosted: Sun Mar 31, 2013 7:55 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

DonLeister wrote:
I made this which has never failed me. It is modeled after one made by Michael Darnton.



Cool, thanks for sharing that Don. Very impressively simple.

I believe Michael's brain must hard-wired to think of direct, simple violin related solutions...
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Michael Darnton
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 31, 2013 8:27 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey! I have one of those. But mine is made of rough poplar, not varnished curly maple! :-)

The holes are reamed with a taper reamer, so that you get different sizes if you come in from different sides.
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actonern
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Joined: 15 Aug 2007
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 31, 2013 9:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Are end pins, like pegs, available in different "guages" so you can start a new instrument with the smallest diameter, leaving wood for the next guy that has to true and re-fit a new one in the future without having to bush the hole?

E
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Michael Darnton
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 31, 2013 9:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

They're like pegs in that they're turned down to the hole they need to fit.
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actonern
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 31, 2013 9:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Michael:

I guess I'm asking about new construction, where you get to decide how big the hole is going to be... I know that pegs can be had new in at least 3 different guages, where truing them up still has to happen, but a basic shaft diameter can be chosen, narrowest first for a new instrument?

I was curious if that also holds for end pins... whether the maker can buy different shaft diameters, requiring less final "truing" to make them fit a pre-defined hole size?

Best regards,

E
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Michael Darnton
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 31, 2013 10:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I was taught to use the middle hole on a three-hole shaper for a new end pin, but I often use the smallest hole. The hole only gets bigger with time, after all.
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ctviolin
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 01, 2013 12:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry - miss-post.
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DonLeister
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 01, 2013 9:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

It is curly maple, but soft box elder maple which I have a stash of but am afraid that it is too weak and light for violins.

Being soft though it compresses some around the endpin so be sure that your first endpins are in there straight, you'll want that as you turn it into the shaper. Once it leaves a compression mark in the holder all of your endpins after that will fall into that groove. I hope that makes sense.
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