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violin finishing

 
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dpence
Junior Member


Joined: 20 Jun 2011
Posts: 1
Location: Show Low, AZ

PostPosted: Mon Jun 27, 2011 3:54 pm    Post subject: violin finishing Reply with quote

Forty years ago I made a violin under the tutelage of CT Williford. Sadly he passed away before he showed me how to do the finish. I saw the pre-made violin varnishes at Lemuel Violins and want to hear various opinions on that product. This will be the only violin I ever make and I'd like to finish it. Thanks.
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Chet Bishop
Super Member


Joined: 23 Mar 2007
Posts: 678
Location: Forest Grove, Oregon

PostPosted: Mon Jul 04, 2011 2:45 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

dpence;

Since no one seems to be answering (possibly they have not used that particular product), I do have one small suggestion:

Go buy at least one cheap violin in the white-- unvarnished. Use it as a practice canvas, so to speak, and try one or more methods on it. You can strip it using citristrip, and re-varnish it.

Frequently you can get one of these for $50 or so, and do the work to complete it, varnish it, etc. practie setting it up, and sell it for much more than you have in it, but still at a very reasonable cost to your customer. Or give it away, if you prefer.

When I was beginning the varnishing stages of my second instrument, I went on ebay and bought four such instruments, at about $55 apiece. I practiced on them, sometimes varnishing more than once, with varied results, and sold them for $250 apiece, with bows and cases. The recipients were thrilled, I got valuable practice, not risking the instrument I had worked so hard to build, and everyone was happy.

There are a variety of threads here on violin varnish. You could start by reading some of them.

Even shellac and spar varnish have been used successfully. Artists' oil colors have been used to add color. Some folk make their own varnish, starting with pine sap, or the like, and linseed oil. I know you don't want to go there, but there really are a lot of options.
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Chet Bishop
https://bluefiddles.com
https://fivestringfiddles.com
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Joseph Leahy
Member


Joined: 23 Mar 2008
Posts: 98
Location: Ontario, Canada

PostPosted: Wed Jul 06, 2011 3:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here is a link to an article by M_A_T_T (see his posts on this forum). Near the bottom of the page he shows his experience using the Joseph Hammerl JOHA Amber 1A Oil Varnish.

http://z11.invisionfree.com/Stringed_Instruments/index.php?showtopic=25&st=60

I thought this might help and if you haven't seen them before, all three posts re the making of Violin I, II and III are quite interesting. The address of the main page is here.

http://z11.invisionfree.com/Stringed_Instruments/index.php?showforum=4

I agree with Chet's comments. A little bit of testing, even on maple scraps, is a good idea prior to trying this on your one and only for the first time.

Joe
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John Cadd
Super Member


Joined: 23 Jul 2009
Posts: 819
Location: Hoylake

PostPosted: Thu Jul 14, 2011 7:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Try Liberon Fine French Polish for a sealer and then varnish made by Lefranc and Bourgeois which is for protecting the finished painting. It is based on Boiled linseed oil and copal resin . They have been supplying this for painters so it should dry quite well. If you use artist colours make sure they are Transparent --the sort used for glaze effects. That`s important. Never mix the colours together in one layer. One layer --one colour. It works better. That should give a dry varnish and not a sticky mess that glues the violin into the case. It will avoid the alchemy that sidetracks many makers.
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