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oldguy Junior Member
Joined: 16 Jan 2011 Posts: 20 Location: Fort Qu'Appelle Sask
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Posted: Sat Mar 17, 2012 1:59 pm Post subject: rib and linings |
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I am thinking of attempting to build a violin from scratch. My question is, do I need linings? My first kit did not have them. I will likely buy the ribs pre-bent and the blocks in a kit. Any help would be welcomed. |
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DonLeister Moderator
Joined: 29 Mar 2007 Posts: 383 Location: Richmond, VA
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Posted: Sat Mar 17, 2012 5:21 pm Post subject: |
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Yes, you need linings. They help hold the top and back on and strengthen the ribs and help them keep their shape. |
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oldguy Junior Member
Joined: 16 Jan 2011 Posts: 20 Location: Fort Qu'Appelle Sask
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Posted: Mon Mar 19, 2012 3:07 pm Post subject: |
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Thanks. I will work them in to the materials list. |
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DonLeister Moderator
Joined: 29 Mar 2007 Posts: 383 Location: Richmond, VA
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Posted: Mon Mar 19, 2012 11:26 pm Post subject: |
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You have a mold I take it, an inside mold? |
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oldguy Junior Member
Joined: 16 Jan 2011 Posts: 20 Location: Fort Qu'Appelle Sask
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Posted: Fri Mar 23, 2012 6:09 pm Post subject: |
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Yes. I bought a mold and a bunch of spool clamps, templates, and I think, plans and thickness charts, from a lady for $20. She got them in a big box of stuff at an auction. |
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DonLeister Moderator
Joined: 29 Mar 2007 Posts: 383 Location: Richmond, VA
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Posted: Sat Mar 24, 2012 9:13 am Post subject: |
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It sounds like you have a lot of things to get started. Any books or instructions? |
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oldguy Junior Member
Joined: 16 Jan 2011 Posts: 20 Location: Fort Qu'Appelle Sask
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Posted: Sat Mar 24, 2012 3:14 pm Post subject: |
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Not really. Just the instructions that came withe the kit from Stu-Mac and a violin repair guide by Michael Atria. It took some pondering to figure out the purpose and use of the mold. Thought at first it was a press for the top and back but it had screws in it. LOL. I don't know if I'm going to try this or not. About $200 for materials. I may get another kit from Stu-Mac and graduate the top and back as my next project. |
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DonLeister Moderator
Joined: 29 Mar 2007 Posts: 383 Location: Richmond, VA
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Posted: Sat Mar 24, 2012 6:16 pm Post subject: |
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I'm not familiar with those publications.
Sharpening skills, tool costs and proper tool selection will be a major part of the process, and then there is just the learning curve involved.
You should go to a week long violin makers workshop or if there is a makers meeting of one of the organizations near you. It would save you countless hours and money.
I would say that regraduating a kit violin is way easier. |
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mikemolnar Member
Joined: 30 Mar 2007 Posts: 57
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Posted: Sat May 25, 2013 9:59 am Post subject: Lining Heights |
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Now that we agree that linings are necessary (grins), I have a question about details. I was told that the linings must cover "exactly" 50% of the rib. A 32 mm rib should have 8 mm linings and a 30 mm rib should have 7.5 mm. Is there anything valid to this claim or is it just an opinion?
Stay Tuned.
Mike |
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ctviolin Super Member
Joined: 07 May 2009 Posts: 961 Location: Roswell
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Posted: Sat May 25, 2013 10:29 am Post subject: Re: Lining Heights |
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I'd also suggest, in order to make things much easier - to get a bag of clothes pins as clamps for along the linings.
They're cheap, plentiful, and make the linings easy to fit perfectly.
I believe that there are many pictures of this process being performed on the internet. Don't think it's not necessary, I believe it is a necassary step. _________________ Look,
Listen,
Learn. |
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dan bombliss Junior Member
Joined: 21 May 2013 Posts: 12
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Posted: Sat May 25, 2013 12:56 pm Post subject: |
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With your bag of clothes pins, you might want to consider wrapping rubber bands around the ends for extra strength. Clothes pins are magical cheap clamps, but the spring doesn't quite cut it.
As far as linings talk goes, be sure you don't do both sides of linings while your mold is in there, unless you have a breakaway mold. If you have a solid mold, and line both sides, it's not coming out. Pretty straight forward, and I'm sure you knew, but that wouldn't be much fun to overlook, if your last build didn't even use them.
-Dan |
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L P Reedy Super Member
Joined: 02 Apr 2009 Posts: 276 Location: Brevard, NC
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Posted: Sat May 25, 2013 6:02 pm Post subject: |
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Mike,
I would say that the linings should cover NO MORE than 50%. EXACTLY 50% would be a little difficult to achieve. But that's just another opinion.
Dan,
It's a lot easier, and effective enough, to cut some off the clothes pins so that the spring ends are centered on the linings. If you get the linings bent properly you don't need much pressure anyway.
And Oldguy,
Yes, you need linings, especially in the C-bouts. My first (old) fiddle had no linings and that area would not stay glued. I added them after I started making. |
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actonern Super Member
Joined: 15 Aug 2007 Posts: 444
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Posted: Sat May 25, 2013 6:40 pm Post subject: |
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"...be sure you don't do both sides of linings while your mold is in there, unless you have a breakaway mold. If you have a solid mold, and line both sides, it's not coming out..."
Hi Dan:
I don't know what kind of mold you specifically mean, but a Strad type inside mold about 13 mm thick can be lined on both sides while on the mold and then removed.
In fact, that's how Strad 'n company did it. It's completely counter intuitive to imagine how it should work, but it does. I tried looking for a u tube of someone doing it, but couldn't find any. You can see it being done here in a series of photos.
http://darntonviolins.com/viola.php?set_id=5 |
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dan bombliss Junior Member
Joined: 21 May 2013 Posts: 12
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Posted: Sat May 25, 2013 8:24 pm Post subject: |
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Well, wouldn't that be a break away mold? A solid inside mold can only be lined on one side is all I was pointing out. |
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ctviolin Super Member
Joined: 07 May 2009 Posts: 961 Location: Roswell
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Posted: Sat May 25, 2013 8:41 pm Post subject: |
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dan bombliss wrote: | Well, wouldn't that be a break away mold? A solid inside mold can only be lined on one side is all I was pointing out. |
Depending on how thick you make your mold.
A typical thin inside mold can hold both sets (of linings) without too much trouble, and a thicker or full height one (mold), the ribs have to be slid and the linings done seperately or independantly.
Like many other facts that show up in "light" discussions like this - the facts can and will often change (and often radically) with the method(s) being used. _________________ Look,
Listen,
Learn.
Last edited by ctviolin on Sun May 26, 2013 2:00 am; edited 1 time in total |
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