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kubasa Member
Joined: 13 Sep 2007 Posts: 212
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Posted: Sun Nov 30, 2014 11:49 pm Post subject: Workbench Top |
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This isn't entirely violin related but I'm hoping someone here has a suggestion. I just finished making a new workbench. It has a solid wood top. I've been reading on different workbench forums and it seems there are two camps. One to treat it with an oil like tung oil and others that leave it "as-is". I will be using this bench entirely for violin making. Any suggestions or does it really even matter either way?
Thanks-
James |
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kjb Super Member
Joined: 06 Feb 2013 Posts: 385
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Posted: Mon Dec 01, 2014 5:55 am Post subject: |
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I asked about this some time back on mn, like you say both camps out there, I ended up putting one coat of tung oil. man that stuff stinks! my wife nearly killed me, so I did nothing else to it. so the idea I got was it did not make much difference. you will probably spill stuff on it and that will stain it over time . |
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ctviolin Super Member
Joined: 07 May 2009 Posts: 961 Location: Roswell
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Posted: Mon Dec 01, 2014 8:57 am Post subject: |
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I have a large section of my bench top covered with white Formica.
Tradition? No, I do not think so, but I love the working surface provided. and the other half is a raw wood face. Both sides are chronically used by me. _________________ Look,
Listen,
Learn. |
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ctviolin Super Member
Joined: 07 May 2009 Posts: 961 Location: Roswell
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Posted: Mon Dec 01, 2014 8:58 am Post subject: |
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ctviolin wrote: | I have a large section of my bench top covered with white Formica.
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A large seamless sheet. _________________ Look,
Listen,
Learn. |
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FiddleDoug Member
Joined: 08 Sep 2007 Posts: 227 Location: Hilton, NY
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Posted: Mon Dec 01, 2014 9:03 am Post subject: How about just a quick coat of shellac? |
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Just something to seal the raw wood. _________________ Doug Wall
www.wallindependent.com |
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actonern Super Member
Joined: 15 Aug 2007 Posts: 444
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Posted: Mon Dec 01, 2014 10:42 pm Post subject: |
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sealing it with something like tung oil has the advantage of more easily scraping off dried glue drops and other "impregnables".
Depending on how thick your top material is, you'd also want to seal the bottom surface if doing the top. Just good shop practice, and tends to keep the wood from warping due to uneven moisture absorption/rejection. |
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kubasa Member
Joined: 13 Sep 2007 Posts: 212
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Posted: Tue Dec 02, 2014 9:48 am Post subject: |
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Thank you everyone for the replies. I finally did find that thread on MN, kjb. I still haven't entirely decided what I'm going to do. My top is 3" thick so I should be able to plane it down every now and then if I need to! Here's a pic.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_c364T3AaWmUUVRTU14dlpKcG8/view?usp=sharing
Last edited by kubasa on Mon Dec 08, 2014 11:12 am; edited 1 time in total |
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Michael Darnton Moderator
Joined: 23 Mar 2007 Posts: 1281 Location: Chicago
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Posted: Tue Dec 02, 2014 5:01 pm Post subject: |
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I've never sealed mine--they usually seal themselves with all the varnish materials I spill on them. Every once in a while I'll spread on some boiling water, and scrape the whole thing down a bit, which keeps most of the. . . . uh. . . . . . patina. _________________ new blog at my site! http://darntonviolins.com/blog
my work sites: http://darntonviolins.com and http://darntonhersh.com |
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Will L Junior Member
Joined: 06 Mar 2011 Posts: 22
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Posted: Sun Dec 07, 2014 1:53 am Post subject: |
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I remember when we got a new bench in the College of the Redwoods class. Boyd Poulsen immediately brushed some varnish on it to christen it. I know why, because when I bought a new bench it was hard to not treat it as furniture for a few days. Now it's finally getting to look like a serious bench. |
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Will L Junior Member
Joined: 06 Mar 2011 Posts: 22
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Posted: Sun Dec 07, 2014 1:54 am Post subject: |
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I have no idea how this got printed twice, so I'll erase the content that is in the post above and tell my idea for new cars:
I think every new car should leave the factory with a big scratch put in the side; because the minute you get the first one it is not as likely you'll get another one soon.
I usually get about $800 worth of body work within the first 200 miles. It's uncanny.
Last edited by Will L on Thu Dec 11, 2014 10:19 pm; edited 2 times in total |
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kubasa Member
Joined: 13 Sep 2007 Posts: 212
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Posted: Mon Dec 08, 2014 11:17 am Post subject: |
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I ended up putting some Danish oil on it. I'm happy with out it turned out.
Will, I christened my workbench over the weekend. I set down a cordless screwdriver and left a nice grease smudge. I have no idea where the grease came from since I don't use my cordless around cars or engines but well, I'm glad that first ding has happened and I can move on!
James |
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Dave Chandler Super Member
Joined: 31 Oct 2007 Posts: 691 Location: Mt Mitchell in North Carolina
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Posted: Wed Dec 10, 2014 12:10 am Post subject: First ding |
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kubasa wrote: | I'm glad that first ding has happened and I can move on!
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Reminds me of a new car I bought back in the early 80s, so proud I left it in the driveway instead of the garage. That night, big storm, shingles flying off the roof, gave my new car a nice buffing. Got that out of the way real fast.
My workbench, on the other hand, looks like it came from a flea market. Never thought about sealing it, always getting a beating, not respected, but well loved. _________________ Dave in the Blue Ridge
Southern Violin Association
"Success is the ability to go from one failure to the next with no loss of enthusiasm" Winston Churchill
"I took the road less travelled, and now I don't know where I am." Marco Polo |
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