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Bridge questions

 
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bee-g
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Joined: 30 Aug 2015
Posts: 6

PostPosted: Fri Sep 04, 2015 10:20 pm    Post subject: Bridge questions Reply with quote

Has anyone used one of these type of bridges? Glaesel Self-Adjusting 4/4 Violin Bridge ?

is it ready to use or does it have to be sanded more to thin it down and such?

I also thinking I would love a more steep curve to lesson my hitting two strings while bowing.

Feels my bridge is a bit to flat across the top.

I just dont have the time to drive 3 citys over to get to the only place I found that might do such work. But they might not as they said on website they prefure working on those expensive insterments. yes mine is a cheapo but on my limited income is all I can afford
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Franciscus
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Joined: 11 Jan 2014
Posts: 43
Location: Tuzla, Bosnia

PostPosted: Sat Sep 05, 2015 6:22 am    Post subject: Re: Bridge questions Reply with quote

bee-g wrote:
Has anyone used one of these type of bridges? Glaesel Self-Adjusting 4/4 Violin Bridge ?

is it ready to use or does it have to be sanded more to thin it down and such?

I also thinking I would love a more steep curve to lesson my hitting two strings while bowing.

Feels my bridge is a bit to flat across the top.

I just dont have the time to drive 3 citys over to get to the only place I found that might do such work. But they might not as they said on website they prefure working on those expensive insterments. yes mine is a cheapo but on my limited income is all I can afford

I'd say that the Glaesel's adjustable bridges are too expensive. If you will still want to buy adjustable one, look here:
https://www.internationalviolin.com/Shop/accessories-bridges-chinrests-endpins-fingerboards-tailpieces-and-more/bridges/violin-bridges. Adjustable bridges fit to the top so-so, better than blanks, but not so good as custom fitted. Plus, they come in various heights, so you still have to adjust the depth of string notches in order to ensure proper playability. So, perhaps, you can start to learn art of bridge cutting buying "fitted" one, because this kind of bridges has string notches cut at proper distance between each other, legs need some sanding, bot not too much, so you can do that yourself (here you can see one of methods, not the best I'd say, but not the worst one, too: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nkP6kxj3srE&list=PL721604791B644131 - the jig helps, but you can finish the job without one if you are not willing to buy something like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Violin-Making-Tool-Redressal-Violin-Bridge-Machine-FOR-ACOUSTIC-Violin-/221858378955?hash=item33a7ca34cb). Actually, you can fit the bridge to the top using the knife only, but for the start, this method is maybe easier. The price of bridge blank + jig is still lower than the adjustable Glaesel. You should add one more thing: http://www.ebay.com/itm/13pcs-0-38-1-54mm-Welding-Torch-Nozzle-Tip-Jet-Cleaner-Needle-File-Set-Box-/331542680454?hash=item4d317bd386. This is cheap replacement for (very) expensive nut or bridge files and you will need it for adjustment of depth of string notches. Do not worry for the thickness, pre-fitted bridges were thinned a bit, good enough for the start. Sandpaper is everything you need till you know what tools you really need.
After you have the bridge fitted to the top, you should measure the "action" - the distance between the bottom of the string and fingerboard, at its end on the bridge side. For E string, it should not be greater than 3.5mm, for G - not greater than 5.5mm. If it is, find the file from the set which has the same diameter of the string and pull one or two times filling the bottom of the string notch, pressing perpendicular to the top of violin, not to the center of the bridge, which seems natural to some people. When you have proper action on the E and G, since you do not have a bridge template, you can adjust action on A and D according to your taste, after you plays fully stringed violin. If you feel that your bridge is too straight on the one side, make the notch of outside string on the side where you feel it a little deeper. The curve that connects tops of the strings should be around 42mm, remember that, but this is not the rule for every violin nor for every player. When you finish with the adjustment of the action, you can sand the top of the bridge so that the strings "sink" into the notches not more than a half of its diameter - the strings have to lay on the bridge, not pass through it. Take a graphite pencil and pull it through the notches (lubricate them) and voila - you have customized bridge for the price lower than the price of adjustable Glaesel, you can cut the bridge for yourself (perhaps for your colleagues and earn a few bucks) and (most important), you are less dependent and you started to learn new art. If you go this way, after awhile, you will not need the jig, sell it and buy knives (X-Acto or Excell small set for the start), bridge templates, maybe bridge lifter. From this point, you will see what you need more yourself. Good luck, mate!


Last edited by Franciscus on Mon Sep 07, 2015 12:57 pm; edited 1 time in total
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L P Reedy
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Joined: 02 Apr 2009
Posts: 276
Location: Brevard, NC

PostPosted: Sat Sep 05, 2015 5:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Even the self adjusting bridges are unlikely to be the right height and will need to be lowered some.

I advise first filing the E and G notches of your present bridge slightly deeper to see if it works better. 1/2 mm on each can help a lot. The E can be as low as 2 mm above the end of the fingerboard and if you have steel core strings the G can be as low as about 3 mm, if the fingerboard is in reasonably good shape. A synthetic G may require a little more clearance.
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Cliff Green
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Joined: 01 Apr 2007
Posts: 111
Location: Amissville, Virginia

PostPosted: Mon Sep 07, 2015 9:43 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

As has been said, a fitted bridge will still need considerable fitting. You would be just as well off using a typical bridge blank.
For as good a description of bridge fitting as you will find go to violinmag.com/chap 15/page 17. Say thank you to Maichael Darnton.
Using a sanding jig will only work on a perfectly smooth violin top and only get you in the ballpark since the bridge only truly fits in one spot or at best a very very small area. Watching the video Franciscus posted of bridge fitting was scary. The knife handling skills were atrocious, should come with band aids and sanding with a jig over that large and uncontrolled an area, useless. No intent on devaluing Franciscus's valuable contributions.
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Franciscus
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Joined: 11 Jan 2014
Posts: 43
Location: Tuzla, Bosnia

PostPosted: Mon Sep 07, 2015 12:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cliff Green wrote:
As has been said, a fitted bridge will still need considerable fitting. You would be just as well off using a typical bridge blank.
For as good a description of bridge fitting as you will find go to violinmag.com/chap 15/page 17. Say thank you to Maichael Darnton.
Using a sanding jig will only work on a perfectly smooth violin top and only get you in the ballpark since the bridge only truly fits in one spot or at best a very very small area. Watching the video Franciscus posted of bridge fitting was scary. The knife handling skills were atrocious, should come with band aids and sanding with a jig over that large and uncontrolled an area, useless. No intent on devaluing Franciscus's valuable contributions.

I agree almost completely, but: the video I shared here was the only one video about using the fitting jig I found on Youtube and I wrote that this technique is not the best one, but could get one to the ballpark. But, you're right, if one move the jig much less. I do not use the jig, but certainly, if one has a problems listed in the OP, use of the jig is one of possible ways, for some time (up to the dozen bridges, I'd say). Darnton's text is wonderful (zillions thanks to Mr. Darnton for it and for the other invaluable instructions), but it could be overdose for someone who never cut any bridge, even never adjusted the fitted one. One must start from somewhere, I did and you did. OK, maybe it is easier and more clever to start properly, using just the knives, but I started using the jig and I described my experience.
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Cliff Green
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Joined: 01 Apr 2007
Posts: 111
Location: Amissville, Virginia

PostPosted: Tue Sep 08, 2015 9:30 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My apologies Franciscus. I did not mean to criticize you only the demonstration on you tube.
To be honest I used a sanding jig for my first bridges. The technique seemed reasonable and I did not know any better. If a jig is used and the sanding is confined to a very small area one can get a bridge in the ball park and that may be good enough but I think it is good for a beginner to see how a professional bridge is carved.
i wish that these instructions had been available when I started carving bridges.
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Franciscus
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Joined: 11 Jan 2014
Posts: 43
Location: Tuzla, Bosnia

PostPosted: Tue Sep 08, 2015 3:25 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Cliff Green wrote:
My apologies Franciscus. I did not mean to criticize you only the demonstration on you tube.
To be honest I used a sanding jig for my first bridges. The technique seemed reasonable and I did not know any better. If a jig is used and the sanding is confined to a very small area one can get a bridge in the ball park and that may be good enough but I think it is good for a beginner to see how a professional bridge is carved.
i wish that these instructions had been available when I started carving bridges.

Why apologies? I did not understand your post as the critique, you was right. Besides, I think that almost every one of us here used the jig for some time, just because it enable an easy start, even it is not, for sure, the proper way. Sometimes, if one has no one to help him, it is pretty hard to become familiar with the bridge's shapes, dimensions, positions, etc. After a few bridges fitted and, most important thing, after intensive learning, one could go more freely and more competently. Cheers, Franc
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Franciscus
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Location: Tuzla, Bosnia

PostPosted: Tue Sep 08, 2015 3:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Here is one nice video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eUUGmNbEFXw. I do what I do using very similar techniques (and I am a little bit more careful with the knife), besides sanding. I never sand my bridges, just scrape them, but is is just my habit, nothing more, I suppose.
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bee-g
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Joined: 30 Aug 2015
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 08, 2015 8:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

watched that video. not sure if I can do that since I cant afford calibers and such to get the right thicknesses.

but was interesting to watch to learn how it is done. maybe if I get a few of the cheap unfinished ones I might try my hand at carving them anyway. but wont happen soon,. monthly budget keeps it tight here.

untill then Guess I will deal with my student bridge till I can afford to go to the shop in the next county that might deal with bridges.

But thank you for the input. was eyeopening
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Franciscus
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Location: Tuzla, Bosnia

PostPosted: Wed Sep 09, 2015 1:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

bee-g wrote:
watched that video. not sure if I can do that since I cant afford calibers and such to get the right thicknesses.

The caliper itself costs less than dollar (plastic one) or about 5-6 bucks (stainless) on eBay. If you buy Excel (or similar) hobby knife with #11 blade, you have everything you need for successful start Furthermore, you certainly could fit the semi fitted blanks with sandpaper only. Very often, you even should not thin them at all, because a lot of student violins tend to sounds, say, shrilly. A little bit thicker bridge are quite appropriate in such cases and "fitted" blanks are mostly already thinned enough to get these bridges in the ball park Most of the wood you would remove by knife has already been taken off. The "fitted" ones save a lot of work. They really do. Do not give up so fast Very Happy
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