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gluing tight crack

 
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Mat Roop
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Joined: 24 Mar 2007
Posts: 828
Location: Wyoming Ontario

PostPosted: Tue Jul 07, 2015 11:57 am    Post subject: gluing tight crack Reply with quote

Looking for suggestions... I have a violin that came in for setup and cleaning... when the tail piece came off it exposed a separation of the centre join just short of the length of the tailpiece... surprise!
The client would like to avoid the cost of removing the top for repair and reinforcement.. so I am looking for suggestions to get glue to enter the crack which is quite close.
I am thinking of a syringe with a rubber ring with which to force glue in. alternately, laying some glue on the crack, overlaying with saran wrap, then massaging the glue into the joint. The point of the saran wrap would be to prevent the glue from drying before it gets into the crack, and I can even reheat thru the saran wrap if it cools.

But there are better minds out there with experience and better ideas... Would appreciate hearing them!
Thanks!... Mat
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rs
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Joined: 14 Jan 2009
Posts: 188
Location: Missouri

PostPosted: Tue Jul 07, 2015 8:13 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Mat, I've never had any success repairing cracks in a top without freeing it up if even locally from the ribs. I might try popping the saddle off, separating the top from the lower block and lower bouts up to the lower corners. Then, if the crack goes to the saddle, I might try grabbing the plate on each side of the crack and working it up and down like scissors. I might then brush some glue into the crack and work it in with this scissor action and clamp it overnight. Then before gluing the plate back to the ribs and block, I might be inclined to reach under and put a couple of cleats although lately I've been omitting cleats and studs if the glue joint is clean, good and tight. I might then shorten the saddle so its fit is sloppy just in case a tight saddle is the source of the problem.

I don't know if any of this helps, but the problem I had if I didn't free the top was the crack would re-open even if it appeared that had I managed to get glue all the way in and the joint clamped and drawn in tightly. I kind of learned I would rather just eat the cost myself for not having caught the problem than have the client looking at me wondering what I was thinking to begin with trying to glue the joint the way I did.

I'm like you. I hate surprises, also.
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DonLeister
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Joined: 29 Mar 2007
Posts: 355
Location: Richmond, VA

PostPosted: Tue Jul 07, 2015 10:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yes, what rs says, if the crack goes down to the saddle loosen a bout or two,
but if it is tight at the saddle and open in the tailpiece area you might work
some glue in there and put a cam clamp over it and press the top down to
close it.

Sometimes I see a center seam open up there while the area at the saddle is tight and usually a cam clamp will get it to close. Put a piece of clear plastic under the clamp at the crack (hard like a credit card) to keep the edges of the crack even.
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Mat Roop
Senior Member


Joined: 24 Mar 2007
Posts: 828
Location: Wyoming Ontario

PostPosted: Wed Jul 08, 2015 12:32 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks rs & Don... I like the suggestion of releasing the top from the bottom block and lower ribs... for sure will give better access to working the crack. I think the crack may have evolved from the tight saddle, so I'll fix that at the same time.
And yes... I agree that it will be professional courtesy to eat the extra cost, and I do plan to do that.

Thanks for the advice... greatly appreciated! ... Mat
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