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Making purfling
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tomigv
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Joined: 11 Apr 2008
Posts: 50
Location: lee/s summit mo

PostPosted: Thu Nov 27, 2008 9:43 am    Post subject: Making purfling Reply with quote

Question I have made 2 sets of purfling using .6 mm veneer one is white brown white, and the other is brown white brown. The brown is mahogany , and the white is maple . Each strip of purfling is about 1.8 mm wide . an 2.5 mm thick I was planning to use this as an alternative to the white black white, which though traditional, does not appeal colorwise to me. I would appreciate your input. I was planning to use this purfling for guitar and violin making ???
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I am very interested in violin and bow making. Have quite a few interesting bows and a large cache of pernambuco. I like to experiment using local midwest hardwoods,
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Jack H.
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Joined: 24 Mar 2007
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Location: Israel

PostPosted: Thu Nov 27, 2008 12:54 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I am a bit lost.
Traditional purfling is black white black.
White brown white would get lost on the white of an instrument and end up looking just like a single strip of black.
Also if the purfling channel is not perfect, there will be visible glue lines in the white black/brown white purfling making it look bad.
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tomigv
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Joined: 11 Apr 2008
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Location: lee/s summit mo

PostPosted: Thu Nov 27, 2008 7:07 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Laughing Shalom jack, thank s for the tip. Laughing
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I am very interested in violin and bow making. Have quite a few interesting bows and a large cache of pernambuco. I like to experiment using local midwest hardwoods,
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tomigv
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Location: lee/s summit mo

PostPosted: Wed Dec 24, 2008 11:17 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Very Happy I made 2 sets of veneer purfling the wbw was 2pcs of maple between walnut veneer . The second was 2pcs of walnut betwen maple veneer. I used a test sample board of white basswood and inlaid a traditional purfling of black white black, and a walnut maple walnut purfling on each side then gave them each 3 coats of a shellac based varnish. The white black white definitely jumps out a lot more . I will be using the walnut based veneer purfling for small instruments and guitars
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I am very interested in violin and bow making. Have quite a few interesting bows and a large cache of pernambuco. I like to experiment using local midwest hardwoods,
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violinarius
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Joined: 14 Dec 2007
Posts: 171

PostPosted: Fri Dec 26, 2008 4:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

1.8 mm thick is a bit too thick. Most violin purfling is in the area of 1.2 mm thick.

If you go to The Strad Magazine site, there is in the downloads section a nice pdf article by Kai-Thomas Roth on purfling.

http://www.thestrad.com/hdownloads.asp

"Trade Secrets: September 2007

To download Kai-Thomas Roth's article on making purfling, "

Just click on the 'click here'.
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tomigv
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Location: lee/s summit mo

PostPosted: Sun Dec 28, 2008 4:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Surprised thank you ,could only read part of the article, as the rest of the print was too small to read
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I am very interested in violin and bow making. Have quite a few interesting bows and a large cache of pernambuco. I like to experiment using local midwest hardwoods,
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violinarius
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Joined: 14 Dec 2007
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 29, 2008 7:24 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

tomigv wrote:
Surprised thank you ,could only read part of the article, as the rest of the print was too small to read


In the Adobe Acrobat reader at the top is a function that lets you blow up the page to whatever percent you want. You should be able to enlarge the page to be able to read it comfortably enough.

Mine comes through at 164% rather well.
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mikemolnar
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Joined: 30 Mar 2007
Posts: 57

PostPosted: Fri Jan 02, 2009 8:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sacconi in Secrets ... p. 109 says Stradivari's purfling was 0.3, 0.6, 0.3 (black, white, black.)

At the Portland VSA I was taking notes from one speaker who said Stradivari's purfling was 0.4, 0.6, 0.4.

In any case, you have the idea.

Mike[/i]
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tomigv
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Location: lee/s summit mo

PostPosted: Fri Jan 09, 2009 6:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the tip mike. I used .6 mm veneer , as that is what I found at the local woodcraft store. I will use this 1.8mm for guitar work . I checked in my purfling parts and found a small amount of the 1.2 mm purfling. It seems that individual makers in the past all had their own idiosncratic ways of making purfling, depending on which european country they came from.
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David Tseng
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Joined: 14 Jul 2008
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Location: Lake of the Woods, ON

PostPosted: Sun Jan 11, 2009 1:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I use maple veneer to make purflings, the black ones are dyed with iron acetate/tannic acid. I prefer 1.2mm thickness because I only need to bend the ones for C-bout. Also the veneers are "tenderized" with glycerin to prevent breakage.
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mikemolnar
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Joined: 30 Mar 2007
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PostPosted: Thu Jan 15, 2009 3:18 pm    Post subject: Sources of Good Purfling? Reply with quote

Can anyone recommend a source of good, quality purfling? I really do not want to make my own.

Mike
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M.Lange
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Joined: 30 Apr 2008
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Location: Germany

PostPosted: Thu Jan 15, 2009 3:41 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I buy mine from Thomas Herrmann http://www.purfling.com/english/home.htm and I am very satisfied with it. It is very accurately made and the glue joints don't come apart during bending plus his prices are very reasonable.
He will also make purfling to your specifications, if needed.
I recently bought 50 strips of 0,3mm fiber/0,6mm poplar/0,3mm each 80cm long. It cost me 17,50 Euros.
But you are probably looking for some source in the US, right?

Matthias
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Dave Chandler
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Joined: 31 Oct 2007
Posts: 691
Location: Mt Mitchell in North Carolina

PostPosted: Sun May 15, 2016 6:38 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

David Tseng wrote:
Also the veneers are "tenderized" with glycerin to prevent breakage.
I tried this (glycerin) using a 6/1 water/glycerin solution, all my purfling (maple/pear/maple) delaminated with or without heat and the layer outside the bend still splintered. I tried bending a piece after 24 hrs of soaking, then 2 days, then 4 days, with and without heat -- without success.

If I make my own purfling, would it not be better to use another glue that is impervious to water? If so, what would that be?

Or, should I be using a 100% glycerin solution to "marinate" the purfling?

By the way, I really like this maple/pear/maple because the pear already has a brown hue, and takes on more the color of the varnish rather than the stark white. I like the subdued result. I get it thru Howard Core.
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L P Reedy
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Joined: 02 Apr 2009
Posts: 276
Location: Brevard, NC

PostPosted: Mon May 16, 2016 6:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You shouldn't soak it at all. Try a 10% glycerin solution, dip it and wipe off, let dry. Use heat as needed. Works for me. We just went over this in Chet's Marylhurst thread.

For making your own, I suspect that Titebond II would be fine but I don't make my own. Mine comes from IVC.
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Dave Chandler
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Joined: 31 Oct 2007
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Location: Mt Mitchell in North Carolina

PostPosted: Tue May 17, 2016 2:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks, didn't look there. I have a new shipment in now, I'll give "dip it and wipe it off" another try.
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Dave in the Blue Ridge
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