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screw controlled blade adjustment

 
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elvio
Junior Member


Joined: 04 Oct 2016
Posts: 6
Location: edinburgh, scotland

PostPosted: Wed Oct 19, 2016 10:37 pm    Post subject: screw controlled blade adjustment Reply with quote

[img]/Users/michaelwynn/Desktop/IMG_0629.jpg
I managed to get my mini-planes working but found the wedge securing method unreliable. I removed the cross piece used to fix the wedge, drew a line parallel to the blade seat through the empty space, bored two extra holes beside the empty wedge holder and joined them with a hole saw on both sides. I then took a metal cutting1/16 thick, 1/2 in. wide and 1and 3/4 in long, bored an under sized no.8 hole then put a tap of size 8 through it. A number 8 sized bolt was screwed into the metal bar after it was inserted through the parallel slot .The blade can now be held securely against the seat by the size 8 screw and can be more finely adjusted. Others may have originated similar solutions but this is what occurred to a tyro at violin making but versed in other skills.I hope the photo comes out but the details given might suffice.[/img]
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Dave Chandler
Super Member


Joined: 31 Oct 2007
Posts: 682
Location: Mt Mitchell in North Carolina

PostPosted: Wed Oct 19, 2016 11:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Elvio,
Your photo has to be on a web hosted site, like Flikr.com or Photobucket.com, and then you can post it here using the image button above. This forum only pulls them up from other locations for display purposes.

Notice the "Sticky" at the top of the list of subjects in this forum.
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Southern Violin Association

"Success is the ability to go from one failure to the next with no loss of enthusiasm" Winston Churchill

"I took the road less travelled, and now I don't know where I am." Marco Polo
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Chet Bishop
Super Member


Joined: 23 Mar 2007
Posts: 642
Location: Forest Grove, Oregon

PostPosted: Thu Oct 20, 2016 12:37 am    Post subject: finger planes Reply with quote

This is how I tend to do them:










It works well, regardless of the size I have made, though, of course, the larger ones have heavier blade and cap iron. (That is a quarter, there, below, and a violin scroll, for size comparison. I made that plane when I was building a bass. It is pretty heavy, for most people, but it works OK.)


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Chet Bishop
http://www.bluefiddles.com


Last edited by Chet Bishop on Fri Oct 21, 2016 9:17 am; edited 1 time in total
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elvio
Junior Member


Joined: 04 Oct 2016
Posts: 6
Location: edinburgh, scotland

PostPosted: Thu Oct 20, 2016 1:09 am    Post subject: mini planes Reply with quote

Chet,
A superior and quicker method than mine. Quite glad however that I was thinking roughly along the same lines as a maestro. Look forward to reading some of your previous articles when , no doubt, I will absorb useful information.
The problem now is to think of what to do with the metal cross pieces littering the bench.
Glad to hear from you and best wishes.
michael wynn
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Chet Bishop
Super Member


Joined: 23 Mar 2007
Posts: 642
Location: Forest Grove, Oregon

PostPosted: Thu Oct 20, 2016 7:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Well... glad to be of service.

I'm certainly not a master, with only thirty instruments under my belt. Still a relative newbie, trying to improve.

The Spanish word "maestro" means "teacher", though. I do a fair amount of that, so maybe...
Smile

BTW, that little hickory plane is my best one for ebony (inside the fingerboard underside, etc.), which explains all the black residue worn into the sole.
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Chet Bishop
http://www.bluefiddles.com
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