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Water Stains on new wood. Any fix?

 
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Rick M
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Joined: 18 Sep 2016
Posts: 26
Location: Okotoks, AB, Canada

PostPosted: Mon Jul 31, 2017 11:56 pm    Post subject: Water Stains on new wood. Any fix? Reply with quote

I picked up this for a back (violin #1) a few months ago. The previous post promoted this one.

The stains that I've circled are water stains. I bought the block knowing what I was getting because I was looking for "beginner" wood. The discussion on cleaning up cracks got me wondering if a brush with peroxide or something might make the staining less noticeable (after carving)?

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Dave Chandler
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Joined: 31 Oct 2007
Posts: 682
Location: Mt Mitchell in North Carolina

PostPosted: Wed Aug 02, 2017 11:37 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I don't think you have a problem till you've got to final surface, by then it may be gone. Even so, it will likely blend in. Now's the time to find out, since you've not started carving on it, try just scraping the surface down a bit and go through your varnish routine and see how it comes out.
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Dave in the Blue Ridge
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Dave Chandler
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Location: Mt Mitchell in North Carolina

PostPosted: Wed Aug 02, 2017 11:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I see you'Re from Okotoks, I used to buy wood from "Grandpas Workshop" there. Dan, or Don Barnes?
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Dave in the Blue Ridge
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Rick M
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Joined: 18 Sep 2016
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Location: Okotoks, AB, Canada

PostPosted: Wed Aug 02, 2017 10:12 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks Dave, I actually agree, but this community seems to be able to work magic with wood and finishes, so I was curious.

You're right it was Grandpas Workshop. Don isn't around anymore but it's being run by a great young guy, Tyler Langdon. He has a nice little luthier operation going as well as the tone wood business.
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Michael Darnton
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Location: Chicago

PostPosted: Wed Aug 02, 2017 10:51 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

It won't hurt to brush some peroxide on and see what happens. Probably nothing, but you never know.
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Chet Bishop
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Location: Forest Grove, Oregon

PostPosted: Fri Aug 04, 2017 7:49 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

My expectation would be that it is not much more than surface-deep. I'm pretty sure it will be long gone by the time you get to the completed back.
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Rick M
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Joined: 18 Sep 2016
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Location: Okotoks, AB, Canada

PostPosted: Thu Sep 14, 2017 9:42 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thought I'd post an update on this one.

Once I got the underside flattened, it became pretty clear that the stains went all the way through. And working on the arching just confirms it.



I did try the peroxide (on a scrap end) and Michael was correct, not much happened.

So, now it is just part of the character of the instrument. Smile

Just an aside on water damage. This was damaged in the flooding we had here in 2013. Our home was untouched, but the city my kids live in had to be evacuated for 2 weeks. The city (High River) is still working on repairs to infrastructure and the community is still getting over the whole ordeal.

Lots of thoughts and good wishes to all the folks in Texas, Florida and the Caribbean - their trials are only beginning.
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Chet Bishop
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Location: Forest Grove, Oregon

PostPosted: Fri Sep 15, 2017 11:12 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I remember that flood. You folks had some serious threats, there! My wife's parents were there during that time, on some sort of special train-trip, and were nearly stranded there, but got through unscathed.
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Michael Darnton
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PostPosted: Sat Sep 16, 2017 12:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

One very effective wood bleach is oxalic acid, followed by a lye solution. This is really powerful--you can turn mahogany white, I think. So it might remove a lot of things you like along with the things you don't, and lye isn't good on thin wood (OK on planks because you don't care if the outside 2mm turns to cardboard).

Knowing that, I would just finish the violin and find someone who likes that look. There will be someone. I remember buying a stash of birdseye maple with a furniture maker. Dividing it was going to be hard until he mentioned that he liked spalting, and preferred spalted wood. The task got a whole lot easier right then.

https://www.google.com/search?q=spalted+maple&safe=off&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjiw6nqjarWAhWGyIMKHQrGBbYQ_AUICigB&biw=1138&bih=567
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catnip
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Joined: 04 May 2007
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 19, 2017 9:41 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

What strength peroxide did you use? 3% h. peroxide from the pharmacy will not do anything to wood but if you use industrial 30% h. peroxide (from chemical supplier) and expose the wood to direct sunlight you will see considerable improvement.
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Michael Darnton
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Joined: 23 Mar 2007
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 19, 2017 10:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks, I hadn't thought of that. In the shop I use 40 strength from the beauty shop supply store.
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Rick M
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Joined: 18 Sep 2016
Posts: 26
Location: Okotoks, AB, Canada

PostPosted: Tue Sep 19, 2017 11:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Yep. that would explain a bit for sure. A bit like American beer vs. Navy Rum!

I have to confess, I paid so little attention I had to go dig out the bottle. Sure enough 3%USP. Thanks for pointing that out guys, I may have to give it another try - to satisfy my curiosity. I'm with you Michael. I going to finish it as is.
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