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cutting the purfling channel
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L P Reedy
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Joined: 02 Apr 2009
Posts: 276
Location: Brevard, NC

PostPosted: Wed Dec 27, 2017 6:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Michael, are you sure you didn't write that backwards?
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Michael Darnton
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Joined: 23 Mar 2007
Posts: 1281
Location: Chicago

PostPosted: Wed Dec 27, 2017 6:23 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

You are right and I just corrected it! Thanks!
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carl1961
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Joined: 03 Jul 2017
Posts: 5

PostPosted: Sun Jan 14, 2018 5:31 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Greg M wrote:
Well I finally got my purfling channel cut on the back plate. I just went with the Dremel 3000 and bought the 1/16" carbide bit from Stew-Mac . I did it on 2 passes and lowered the depth by removing washers 1 mm. thick at a time. The purfling drops in with a light cleaning of the groove and tapping it in slightly. I am really pleased with the results. Now to finishing the rest of the plate . Have a good Christmas everybody.


Greg M thats what I use the Dremel 3000 and 1.3mm bit my second violin I made a jig to hold the dremel and a foot petal to lower the dremel I see in the video according to Michael I was going the wrong way
EDIT: I did a back plate today and video is correct, dremel is turning clockwise as it is mounted, and I am moving the plate instead of the router.


https://youtu.be/fQsPKnqSIuY

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JGug8C2rNyo


Last edited by carl1961 on Mon Jan 15, 2018 2:22 am; edited 2 times in total
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ollieken
Super Member


Joined: 26 Mar 2007
Posts: 281
Location: New Brunswick Canada

PostPosted: Sun Jan 14, 2018 10:33 am    Post subject: purfuling Guide Reply with quote

Hello Carl Nice job I wonder if you would mind sharing a pic of the under side of the of the Dremel holder ( guides ) looks like a nice setup . Ken
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carl1961
Junior Member


Joined: 03 Jul 2017
Posts: 5

PostPosted: Mon Jan 15, 2018 1:28 am    Post subject: Re: purfuling Guide Reply with quote

ollieken wrote:
Hello Carl Nice job I wonder if you would mind sharing a pic of the under side of the of the Dremel holder ( guides ) looks like a nice setup . Ken


OK first picture is the rig, what you don't see is to 1/2 collars or sleeves that after I set this in the holes I use the sleeve collars to lock it in up position



taped two holes in base for the long rods and one to mount the plastic extender



I used these toilet bolts to fine the hole distance



I used a piece of a old plastic part to extend the purflin tool base as it raises up.




I had to round a spot on the back of the plastic so that the long rod would be able to screw in the hole for it, it also served to keep the white plastic extender from turning and also sanded the plastic to match the base




I used whatever I had to make the pedal, the cable came off a riding lawnmower's blade engaging handle



two 3/4" plywood glued together for table remember to allow room behind jig for violin plate, I did not and had to mount it 2" of the wall.



I did a back violin plates today and the dremel goes clockwise so I did have to turn my violin plate clockwise to cut correct, dremel going anti clockwise
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ollieken
Super Member


Joined: 26 Mar 2007
Posts: 281
Location: New Brunswick Canada

PostPosted: Mon Jan 15, 2018 5:49 pm    Post subject: Purfling Reply with quote

Hello Carl Thank you for the pics Next project make one like it I have the Dremel Guide. I have never used it . Only one ? Where is the cable hooked to the guide on the Bottom with a small eye bolt . Ken
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Rick M
Member


Joined: 18 Sep 2016
Posts: 65
Location: Okotoks, AB, Canada

PostPosted: Tue Jan 16, 2018 1:16 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Carl, thanks for posting that. Really ingenious.
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carl1961
Junior Member


Joined: 03 Jul 2017
Posts: 5

PostPosted: Tue Jan 16, 2018 3:44 am    Post subject: Re: Purfling Reply with quote

ollieken wrote:
Hello Carl Thank you for the pics Next project make one like it I have the Dremel Guide. I have never used it . Only one ? Where is the cable hooked to the guide on the Bottom with a small eye bolt . Ken


Ok Ken, I went and took some pictures



Those brass screws or those two toilet mount screws


Those at the top of the shaft or bushing that go through that peice of plywood to help keep the jig from any wobble

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carl1961
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Joined: 03 Jul 2017
Posts: 5

PostPosted: Tue Jan 16, 2018 4:02 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rick M wrote:
Carl, thanks for posting that. Really ingenious.

Thanks Rick, even with this table I still make a wobble or two LOL, I guess time will allow me to get a steady hand. My biggest trouble is getting those miters where they look descent, we need a jig to help do those LOL

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ollieken
Super Member


Joined: 26 Mar 2007
Posts: 281
Location: New Brunswick Canada

PostPosted: Tue Jan 16, 2018 5:23 pm    Post subject: purfuling Reply with quote

Carl Thank You for the extra pic good job Ken
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L P Reedy
Super Member


Joined: 02 Apr 2009
Posts: 276
Location: Brevard, NC

PostPosted: Tue Jan 16, 2018 6:40 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

And it still won't work on a closed box. I'll stick with my Foredom.
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carl1961
Junior Member


Joined: 03 Jul 2017
Posts: 5

PostPosted: Wed Jan 17, 2018 6:53 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

L P Reedy wrote:
And it still won't work on a closed box. I'll stick with my Foredom.

Good point L P

I would likely work fine if it was modified and made adjustable to raised for the violin box. (I might think on that a while and try the closed box way, my rods or long enough I think to go the couple inches needed) I read it was better to do it on a closed box , I already ran into the issues where I needed to reshape the edge to have a nice uniform edge all around, but with the prufling already installed your stuck with what you have.
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JPvln
Junior Member


Joined: 29 Dec 2017
Posts: 1

PostPosted: Thu Jan 25, 2018 7:45 am    Post subject: Cutting purfling channel Reply with quote

Speaking of breaking spiral bits, I have read it recommended the depth of cut be no more than half the bit diameter. So that would take 3-4 passes to cut the channel. I've tried in one pass, but find it better to take 2 or more. I'd like hear how others do this.
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L P Reedy
Super Member


Joined: 02 Apr 2009
Posts: 276
Location: Brevard, NC

PostPosted: Thu Jan 25, 2018 5:33 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I always do it in one pass and have never broken a spiral carbide bit. I broke several of the steel, straight flute bits before I switched. I did make a couple of single flute steel bits years ago that work but not as well as the carbide.
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Rick M
Member


Joined: 18 Sep 2016
Posts: 65
Location: Okotoks, AB, Canada

PostPosted: Thu Jan 25, 2018 9:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I broke the lee valley (steel) bit within a couple of inches the first time I tried it.

With that one I couldn’t do more than 1/2 depth. I posted info earlier on some CNC type (so called by vendor) bits. I can do full depth in one pass with those. But SLOW moving.
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