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glueing back plate to ribs

 
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Greg M
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Joined: 04 Jun 2017
Posts: 19

PostPosted: Tue Feb 20, 2018 1:43 pm    Post subject: glueing back plate to ribs Reply with quote

When I was carving the inside of my back plate , I realized that the surface where the neck end block and the c bout block area meet the plate that I removed about 2 mm. away which I should have left as glueing surface. Should I repair the back plate before or after I have joined the ribs to the back plate . I was thinking of plastic wood then carve away the excess plastic wood and sand it flush. Anyone had similar problems . THanks.
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Dave Chandler
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Joined: 31 Oct 2007
Posts: 690
Location: Mt Mitchell in North Carolina

PostPosted: Thu Feb 22, 2018 11:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Oh boy....
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Dave in the Blue Ridge
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Dave Chandler
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Joined: 31 Oct 2007
Posts: 690
Location: Mt Mitchell in North Carolina

PostPosted: Fri Feb 23, 2018 12:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

So, you're only talking about a few spots? How about gluing some maple shavings down into the area, then re-level.
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Dave in the Blue Ridge
Southern Violin Association

"Success is the ability to go from one failure to the next with no loss of enthusiasm" Winston Churchill

"I took the road less travelled, and now I don't know where I am." Marco Polo
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DonLeister
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Joined: 29 Mar 2007
Posts: 362
Location: Richmond, VA

PostPosted: Fri Feb 23, 2018 9:50 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Do you mean 2mm of the thickness of the plate or 2mmm into the glueing area adjacent to the hollowing of the back?
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Greg M
Junior Member


Joined: 04 Jun 2017
Posts: 19

PostPosted: Fri Feb 23, 2018 5:37 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I mean 2 mm on the glueing surface adjacent to the hollowing 0f back plate
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DonLeister
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Joined: 29 Mar 2007
Posts: 362
Location: Richmond, VA

PostPosted: Fri Feb 23, 2018 7:10 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I would glue a piece of maple to the area, say 3mm thick and oversized, using woodworkers glue and then thin it back to what you need there. Taper it into the hollowing of the graduations of the back.
The idea with the woodworkers glue is so that it holds well if the back ever gets taken off and won't release like hide glue.
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Mat Roop
Senior Member


Joined: 24 Mar 2007
Posts: 848
Location: Wyoming Ontario

PostPosted: Sat Feb 24, 2018 4:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm voting for gluing a piece of maple with matching grain lines and when done ... no one will know the difference. With plastic wood you need to know the strength of the plastic and its expansion rates in humidity change....it could separate and fall out later.... even if it holds, the next person working on the instrument in a couple of hundred years will look at it and say "what the **!.... who did this?!"
Good luck!... Mat
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Greg M
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Joined: 04 Jun 2017
Posts: 19

PostPosted: Wed Feb 28, 2018 10:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I used a 3mm piece of maple and fit it in snug . I ended up using contact cement , because my c clamp kept moving the small piece of wood around with wood glue because of the graduation and no flat surface on the top side of the plate . It seems pretty solid so I can blend it in now easily Thanks again guys.
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