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My First Fiddle build
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Fiddleford
Junior Member


Joined: 21 Jan 2019
Posts: 10
Location: NW Lake Gitchegumee

PostPosted: Fri Jan 25, 2019 5:56 am    Post subject: My First Fiddle build Reply with quote

I'll be able to add more to this post later today..
I just wanted to get it out there so I don't forget



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Last edited by Fiddleford on Fri Jan 25, 2019 3:38 pm; edited 1 time in total
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kjb
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Joined: 06 Feb 2013
Posts: 385

PostPosted: Fri Jan 25, 2019 10:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

ok what is a hillbilly fiddle?
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Fiddleford
Junior Member


Joined: 21 Jan 2019
Posts: 10
Location: NW Lake Gitchegumee

PostPosted: Fri Jan 25, 2019 8:35 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

kjb wrote:
ok what is a hillbilly fiddle?


I thought I took that out I apologise, It was ment to be funny

I posted this to talk about the build and get some insight and see what I could be doing better with what I have on hand. I already messed a few things up but its my first and I'll learn from that.

The back and belly plates arnt shapen correctly at the C Bouts on one side and the belly has a few awkward nicks in the wood, I haven't hallowed it out yet I need to utilise a drill press at my uncles
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Fiddleford
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Joined: 21 Jan 2019
Posts: 10
Location: NW Lake Gitchegumee

PostPosted: Sun Jan 27, 2019 3:56 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

The back and belly plates are carved out as good as I can get them, now I need to hallow them out. I also Just started on the mold for the rib's.

For the mold I'm using some of the cleanest oldest pallet wood I have, it's been sitting outside for a few good years so I don't expect it to go all crazy anytime soon.
For the ribs I got some old spruce trim which I'm going to saw into 40' pieces 40 mm high and about 3 mm wide and take the rest down with a good sharp planer and scrape till the caliper tells me its where I need it to be.
The materials aren't at all the best and I understand this instrument will probably not last very long but I need to get my hands wet before I use expensive woods and all that
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Last edited by Fiddleford on Sun Jan 27, 2019 3:57 pm; edited 1 time in total
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kjb
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Joined: 06 Feb 2013
Posts: 385

PostPosted: Sun Jan 27, 2019 10:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

usually you do the ribs first and then match the top and back to that, but what works for you is good. good luck.
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Chet Bishop
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Joined: 23 Mar 2007
Posts: 662
Location: Forest Grove, Oregon

PostPosted: Mon Jan 28, 2019 11:23 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Annnd, the ribs are usually maple. Belly is spruce, along with the bassbar and soundpost. Back, ribs and neck are usually maple, though some have used poplar, and other woods.

Your choice. No criticism intended.
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https://fivestringfiddles.com
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Mat Roop
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Joined: 24 Mar 2007
Posts: 879
Location: Wyoming Ontario

PostPosted: Mon Jan 28, 2019 1:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I've seen lots of folk fiddles... and many of them sound not too bad... better than some of those cheap factory VSO's ( violin shaped objects).
When you get to assembling the top, back, ribs & neck... be especially persnickety in getting these dimensions, angles, and placements absolutely correct...
-Bass bar position and angle.. relative to the centerline of the body
-alignment of the neck ... to the centerline of the body and endpin
- correct angle projection ... this determines height of bridge

Got questions... just ask! .... Good luck!... Cheers, Mat
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Fiddleford
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Joined: 21 Jan 2019
Posts: 10
Location: NW Lake Gitchegumee

PostPosted: Mon Jan 28, 2019 11:16 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

My questions I have right now is how much rib stock should I need to make the instrument, turns out its cherrywood I'm making the ribs from I have it between 1 and 1.5 mm along the whole of what I have.
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Mat Roop
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Joined: 24 Mar 2007
Posts: 879
Location: Wyoming Ontario

PostPosted: Mon Jan 28, 2019 11:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

For one violin, 3 strips of 60 cm X 4cm X 1.7mm should suffice. These are the starting rough dimensions... the thickness will ultimately end up at about 1.2mm. ... and that is if using maple...not sure if there should be a difference for cherry. Also, make a few extra pieces in case of breakage during the bending process or other accidents:)
Good luck... bending ribs is fun! ... Mat
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Fiddleford
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Joined: 21 Jan 2019
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Location: NW Lake Gitchegumee

PostPosted: Fri Feb 01, 2019 4:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thank you for the tips! I have to fix the area where the bridge sits, It sits about a mm under where most of my other bridges sit on one side. I'll assume I may need to either make a new plate or make a really weird looking bridge ehh?
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L P Reedy
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Joined: 02 Apr 2009
Posts: 270
Location: Brevard, NC

PostPosted: Fri Feb 01, 2019 6:50 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

How are you determining "where the bridge sits?" I place it usually about 195 mm from the top edge of the plate (on new work).

For a one-piece lower rib (my preference) you need a rib about 45 to 46 cm long. Longer is better in case of breakage.
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Fiddleford
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Joined: 21 Jan 2019
Posts: 10
Location: NW Lake Gitchegumee

PostPosted: Sat Feb 02, 2019 4:59 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I'm not determining just yet, I don't have a proper template for the left to right arching measurements so I'm free handing it for now I was using the bridge for a reference on if the left to right arching was correct one side is much steeper then the other. What I forgot to do is take down the arch height a little, its at 19 mm so I will be able to fix my problem
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Mat Roop
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Joined: 24 Mar 2007
Posts: 879
Location: Wyoming Ontario

PostPosted: Tue Feb 05, 2019 1:06 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

If in the end you find that the arching is not exactly symmetrical from one side to the other, you can always create a "therapeutic" bridge... ie one foot thicker than the other...
Cheers, Mat
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Fiddleford
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Joined: 21 Jan 2019
Posts: 10
Location: NW Lake Gitchegumee

PostPosted: Tue Feb 05, 2019 1:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

That's exactly what I was going to do but I needed to remove the "meat" on the plate to round off the arching and I fixed my bridge problem, one of the feet is just a hair off but I reckon I could just use a scraper to fix it.

A relative was kind enough to order me a whole set of finger planes so I'll be able to do a better job at hollowing the plates and I'll be getting a lumber caliper soon so I can thickness it best I can
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Mat Roop
Senior Member


Joined: 24 Mar 2007
Posts: 879
Location: Wyoming Ontario

PostPosted: Tue Feb 05, 2019 2:21 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Don't forget to analyse all the info in this link... it is excellent:)
http://www.violinmag.com

and to see how others carve their bridges... along with bridge curve templates....check here
https://www.violinbridges.co.uk
Cheers, Mat
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