Violin Forum/Message Board

M_A_T_T · Member Joined: 03 Apr 2007 Posts: 43

Wow, $150? You're paying $100+ for a fancy engine turned surface. I've made two from $5.00 sheets of 1/8" thick aluminum. One I sold to a violin maker in Canada for $20 and the other I kept for myself.

Here is the one I kept for myself, much like Michael's and Andres' design, except it has legs to support itself.

I also glued the bar while the top was in the frame.

Here is the first one I built, the violin maker I sold it to helped design it. I gave it built in clamps, which I found with my second one were really unnecessary as any little spring clamp will do, and it also has the legs which were my idea. (ignore the top in these pics, it was a pre-carved sample a company sent me)

If you can make a violin, you can make one of these. I used my band saw with a 1/8" 14TPI blade to cut out the outline, than drilled a hole in the middle and used a coping saw with a fine blade to cut out the inside. After that alot of file work is required.
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violinarius · Member Joined: 14 Dec 2007 Posts: 171

Andres Sender · Posted: Sat Dec 15, 2007 6:45 pm Post subject:

Right, but CNC doesn't work magic as far as economics. It takes time to do the programming of the machine even if one provides a CAD drawing. So to get the price into a reasonable level one needs to make a quantity and spread the setup cost out.

My frames were cut from a CAD drawing, but if I'd had only one made it would have cost several hundred dollars.

M_A_T_T · Member Joined: 03 Apr 2007 Posts: 43

My work does loads of CNC work, we have several CNC mills and lathes. I had a bending iron form CNC'd after drawing the shape in CAD.

We actually do quite a bit of 1/8" sheet aluminum CNC'ing for the drywall tools we manufacture. The aluminum sheet I made my frames out of is the same stuff we run in the machines regularly for our production.

I could inquire about costs and time for making such a product. We seem to be somewhat slow right now, might be a good time to ask.

What is a good thickness for the frames? Mine are 1/8" but i think Andres' are 3/16"? I didn't notice mine to flex when using it, nor has the maker I sold one to. I think Michael also once mentioned he bends his frame to fit any distorions in his tops, which would be easier with a thinner frame.
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M_A_T_T · Member Joined: 03 Apr 2007 Posts: 43

I talked to my boss today about CNC'ing some frames. I didn't have mine with me but explained to him what it was. He said off the top of his head it might cost only $9 in material & machining time @ $1/minute + $5 for the sheet. The CAD drawing can be written up by me after hours on my time. The sheets of aluminum that are held in the machine by an existing jig are big enough to do violas as well, they are 12" x 18".
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M_A_T_T · Member Joined: 03 Apr 2007 Posts: 43

This is a prototype I had made. The design is Andres Sender's, who sent me the design and allowed me to use it. It's cut from a sheet of 1/8" anodized aluminum. Some kinks still need to be worked out in regards to how it is cut out.
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Jack H. · Posted: Fri Mar 21, 2008 1:11 pm Post subject:

Looks nice!
Might have to make ait a bit narower on the inside to use it to work on. looks like it hangs over a bit into the work area.

I would order at least 4 or 5 at that price adn pay for shipping and handling...

M_A_T_T · Member Joined: 03 Apr 2007 Posts: 43

Jack H. · Posted: Fri Mar 21, 2008 1:28 pm Post subject:

advertize in the strad magazine or other trade mags.
Start machining tools from aluminum and brass, like those wonderful crack clamps and things and word will get out if you have a simple web site or catalogue.

Andres Sender · Posted: Fri Mar 21, 2008 3:21 pm Post subject:

Jack--the design was carefully worked out (with help and feedback from Michael Darnton) to allow access to the bassbar area in a wide variety of violins while also being clampable to a wide variety, I doubt you'd run into problems even on larger instruments. Frames of this design are currently in use in a certain shop in Chicago. Wink

Matt–The anodizing is nice! You’ll have no trouble moving these if you just contact the various workshops or schools I’d bet.

Jack H. · Posted: Fri Mar 21, 2008 4:06 pm Post subject:

Hey Andres, I figured it would be ok for the bass bar, I had a thought for a fleeting moment that it might interfere with interior work, but you only realy use a frame for the bb and to make a counterform, in which care you are right, it would not get in the way.

WNitkin · Junior Member Joined: 05 Dec 2007 Posts: 15

If you have any frames for sale please let me know!
WNitkin@aol.com

mapleleaf_gal · Member Joined: 24 Mar 2007 Posts: 73 Location: tucson, az

i used pegboard to cut mine. it works great. it is stiff, but you run less of a chance of injurying any part of the wood and i'm sure it is less heavy as well. i used the "holeless" kind of pegboard.
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Andres Sender · Posted: Tue Mar 25, 2008 1:30 pm Post subject:

That would be masonite I think?

Some use clear acrylic also.

M_A_T_T · Member Joined: 03 Apr 2007 Posts: 43

If anyone is interested, I got a second one cut today and was able to get pictures! Laughing

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Making a Violin II

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