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crntral plate joints +planes
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KenN
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Joined: 27 Mar 2007
Posts: 89
Location: Goodrich, MI

PostPosted: Tue Dec 25, 2007 9:39 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I just read the last post and I had one piece of wood out of 5 bellies do the same thing. It ended up that there was a flaw in the wood that would swell up when it got damp and pull the joint right apart. I couldn't even see it until it pulled apart, it was like a branch start that was hidden under .03" of good wood. Once I planed that out of the way it worked fine. It may not be the problem, but you never know.
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Jeffrey Holmes
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Joined: 03 Apr 2007
Posts: 90
Location: Ann Arbor

PostPosted: Wed Dec 26, 2007 4:36 pm    Post subject: Re: Jointing plates Reply with quote

frankcello wrote:


5 then run a very bright light behind that joint and you should see NO light


Gosh... I'm still not with you on this one. I recall that you've had experience with this kind of thing (you build fine funiture, correct?), but I've found a "perfect" joint is much less reliable than a sprung one for me.

When hot glue is applied, I find it tends to swell the wood slightly (and it makes the joint swell in the middle more than the ends). This can sometimes prevent one being able to get a good rubbed joint. Also, when it dries, it pulls back (shrinks) at the joint slightly (and tends to dry more quickly at the ends). With no light showing (dead, bang on, fit), you're fighting nature a bit. Might need a clamp.

Although it takes a bit of patience, a joint that's slightly sprung (evenly from end to end) will "suck" itself together quite well... and I've never had one come apart (even at the ends).
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KenN
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Joined: 27 Mar 2007
Posts: 89
Location: Goodrich, MI

PostPosted: Wed Dec 26, 2007 7:56 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

One of the five tops I glued a while back kept coming apart on me, (they were all rubbed joints) and I finally found there was a flaw, near oposite ends on each half that would swell when glued and pop the joint apart. I planed about .2" off each and got rid of the small stem that was hidden, and it worked fine. Check for a flaw just in case! I also like to use very light pressure when planing. Let the iron do all the work.
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KenN
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Joined: 27 Mar 2007
Posts: 89
Location: Goodrich, MI

PostPosted: Wed Dec 26, 2007 7:59 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Seems like the forum is going goofy on me. Sorry for repeating myself, it said it didn't go.
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jethro
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Joined: 07 Apr 2007
Posts: 178

PostPosted: Thu Dec 27, 2007 12:02 am    Post subject: crazy joints- not the cheech+chong type ! Reply with quote

J.H. My joint tries have so far been without an spring. I may try a little
next time !
KenN: Yes, you could be on to something about the knott causing an
inhomogenious spot for glue absorption and swelling. This top has a
knott area in it right at the surface.... but it is running so that it's the same
way as a tiger stripe would run in a back. I was hoping it would be cut
out when the back was hollowed. It seemed that right there was a consistent high spoy when I was planning it down.(which I expected)
Its running the wronge way to cut out with the jointer or else I would
have. This batch of wood has been trouble from the start. The back plates were warped badly and one side was allmost too thin to use. Seems
like a poor grade of wood--- hurried too much in seasonong out I bet !

I have taken the troublesome front wood (with the knott streak) and
tried joining it a completely different way as an experiment. I will start
a new thread about it as a question.......

Thanks for the thoughts Ken and JC ! Sometimes I feel like I'm on a
small desert Island - and not even a "Minnow" !

Tim
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terrybelt33
Junior Member


Joined: 13 Aug 2020
Posts: 2

PostPosted: Fri Aug 14, 2020 4:19 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

M_A_T_T wrote:
Is this the Delta 6" Benchtop Jointer? I had one and also got lousy results with it. It's the reason I switched to handplanes.


Buddy Delta 6" Benchtop Jointer is not a good one. Recently i purchased Cutech 6 benchtop jointer and i am pretty happy with it.

It has a 6-inch wide spiral cutter head, 90 to 135-degree fence, powerful motor, and adjustable tables.

This joinder is ideal for woodworkers on a budget and for doing it yourself people. It can also be used by professionals working on the smaller workshops as it uses spiral rutters rather than helical ones.

It also have several pros like:-

Spiral cutter head
Dust collection bracket
Adjustable fence
Adjustable beds
Smooth flat edges

Luckily i got a reference of a article for benchtop jointer before purchasing it.
You guys can also read it. Click here to get an idea of best benchtop jointer before purchase.

After seeing cons of delta 6 like:-

    The outfeed table comes static

    The infeed table does have some vibration


I change my opinion to purchase it.

Handplanes are also good
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Michael Darnton
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Joined: 23 Mar 2007
Posts: 1281
Location: Chicago

PostPosted: Sat Aug 15, 2020 7:29 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

A criticism I've heard of joiners, though I have no idea if it's true, is that the cutters tend to compress the wood at the surface, making them repel glue somewhat rather than permitting it to soak it for a full glue joint. Remembering that the final joint is only 3 mm thick and can use all the help it can get.

I used to work somewhere where they used a joiner, and I think that it was common to take one shaving with a plane after the joiner got everything lined up properly. Again, I don't know if that helped a problem that I am not certain is real. :-)
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L P Reedy
Super Member


Joined: 02 Apr 2009
Posts: 276
Location: Brevard, NC

PostPosted: Sun Aug 16, 2020 4:43 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think the key is very sharp jointer blades and slow feed. My first few fiddles had plates that were joined with a cheap tabletop jointer 30 years ago and they have held up fine. In any kind of production shops, the blades are normally slightly dull. I haven't used a jointer for fiddle plates in a long time, but when I want a really accurate joint I hone the blades just before use because I have observed that almost sharp and really sharp require different settings of the jointer tables.
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