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fordraiders Junior Member
Joined: 12 Jan 2008 Posts: 6 Location: Kentucky-Indiana
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Posted: Mon Jan 14, 2008 10:28 am Post subject: Violin Top Crack(s) |
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I have an old violin. 2 Top Cracks. From end piece to f hole(left). The cracks are not totally sealed when pressing in from the sides. Enough to where you can see through. Should I just clamp and hide glue the seal. Or could I use wood filler then hide glue and cleats..Or any suggestions..?
I have cleared glue from the first crack(running from middle of violin to about 1/2 to left . The crack is about4 inches long.
The second crack is about 1 inch further to the left. so if I take the glue from the second crack the piece in the middle will fall out..
Is it best just to repair both at the same time.
Similiar to Jeffrey Holmes pic. But more extreme.
http://www.violins.ca/forums/viewtopic.php?t=97&highlight=hide+glue&sid=a77ca079cf97d4581750c187dff9d4b1
Thanks
David Powell |
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Jeffrey Holmes Member
Joined: 03 Apr 2007 Posts: 90 Location: Ann Arbor
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Posted: Mon Jan 14, 2008 4:04 pm Post subject: |
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Gosh... I hope it's not really more extreme than the violin I posted. There are about 12 cracks in the top of that one.
To try and answer your question: The best way to approach multiple cracks depends on the case... If the cracks are stubborn to close, you are usually better off attending to one at a time, but doing so may require that a neighboring crack is "tack" glued... or that temporary cleats are installed to stabilize it.
Stay away from wood filler in the bond... it does not make for a good joint... and even used cosmetically, it's tough to retouch properly.
Yes, I use reinforcement cleats on tough cracks.
Good luck! _________________ Jeffrey
http://holmesviolins.com |
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fordraiders Junior Member
Joined: 12 Jan 2008 Posts: 6 Location: Kentucky-Indiana
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Posted: Mon Jan 14, 2008 4:55 pm Post subject: |
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Yes, Its worse. At least a 1/16 inch seperation. I think gut feeling it makes sense to repair each as I go along.
The cleats ; are they made of maple or spruce ?
Thanks for replying...so very much... _________________ Mountan Music and tradtional string band music are my main interests. Keeping alive the old traditions. Getting into repair work on old violins. Love Tommy Jarrell;Roscoe Holcomb; Rayna Gellert; Heidi Clare, Owen "Snake" Chapman, Rhys Davies |
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Jeffrey Holmes Member
Joined: 03 Apr 2007 Posts: 90 Location: Ann Arbor
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Posted: Mon Jan 14, 2008 7:27 pm Post subject: |
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Spruce; grain running perpendicular to the top... or in some applications (diamond shape cleats), near 45%. _________________ Jeffrey
http://holmesviolins.com |
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FiddleDoug Member
Joined: 08 Sep 2007 Posts: 227 Location: Hilton, NY
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Posted: Mon Jan 14, 2008 8:49 pm Post subject: Cracks |
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You are taking the front off the instrument for this repair, aren't you?
If the front (table/top) is still on the instrument, it's likely that the front has shrunken enough to have the ribs pull it apart. With the front off, you should be able to close the crack. When clamping the crack closed, be careful not to mess up the arching. _________________ Doug Wall
www.wallindependent.com |
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Jeffrey Holmes Member
Joined: 03 Apr 2007 Posts: 90 Location: Ann Arbor
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Posted: Mon Jan 14, 2008 9:12 pm Post subject: Re: Cracks |
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FiddleDoug wrote: | You are taking the front off the instrument for this repair, aren't you?
If the front (table/top) is still on the instrument, it's likely that the front has shrunken enough to have the ribs pull it apart. With the front off, you should be able to close the crack. When clamping the crack closed, be careful not to mess up the arching. |
Man... Good question, Doug. I didn't even think to ask. I just assumed he had.
Maintaining the integrity of the arching is another subject entirely... Several techniques are effective (plaster casting, towers/wedges/clamps, jigs, zipper style cleats).
When use is possible, I've found the most accurate/effective method is to use towers/wedges/clamps. Unlike gluing in a cast, this method requires no "sandwiching" pressure on the plates to keep the crack and arching in line, so the shrinkage of the wood/glue while it dries under pressure is not an issue. With what sounds like a 1 mm gap in the center of the cracks that's being described, sounds like it this procedure will be advisable. _________________ Jeffrey
http://holmesviolins.com |
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fordraiders Junior Member
Joined: 12 Jan 2008 Posts: 6 Location: Kentucky-Indiana
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Posted: Tue Jan 15, 2008 2:39 am Post subject: |
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(You are taking the front off the instrument for this repair, aren't you? )
Yes the plate is off...
I'am not taking the bottom plate off. Intact and no gaps.
I have to get a whole new neck. Someone had a 3/4 neck on this 4/4 violin.
I had additional cleaning and repairing to do. The top plate was already loose in spots. to numerious to not kep off and just do additional repairing.
Quite fun and peaceful work.
Cleats are my next adventure...
Thanks
for all the replies...!
David _________________ Mountan Music and tradtional string band music are my main interests. Keeping alive the old traditions. Getting into repair work on old violins. Love Tommy Jarrell;Roscoe Holcomb; Rayna Gellert; Heidi Clare, Owen "Snake" Chapman, Rhys Davies |
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