View previous topic :: View next topic |
Author |
Message |
jethro Member
Joined: 07 Apr 2007 Posts: 178
|
Posted: Fri Jun 27, 2008 1:56 am Post subject: minor crack repair ? How to ? |
|
|
I was donated an old violin (100 +years -maybe more) .
It has the seemingly gratuitious label reading stradavarious and 1744.
The top had several cracks completely from one end to the other in the top. ( a "three piece" top ! ) The thing is very crudely made !
There are no corner blocks. The lineings are paper thin in places .
the top appears to be made of ceader. It has VERY rough graduation.
The ribs have coarse splinters sticking out from them being bent.
to my question.........
The top and back both have a few short cracks ( 1 inch) starting from
the ends of the plates. They aern't way open yet but I would like to
prevent them from growing any farther. How do I get glue in them without stressing them and opening them more. Do I just wipe it in from
the outside and clamp ???????????
The rough gouging left steps which sort of started stress risers I think.
Any thoughts ?
I thought this would be good practice for doing repairs. I am attempting to
do a restoration on it. Will probably put in new end blocks and reset
the neck into the new block.
Tim |
|
Back to top |
|
|
FiddleDoug Member
Joined: 08 Sep 2007 Posts: 227 Location: Hilton, NY
|
Posted: Fri Jun 27, 2008 5:43 pm Post subject: Old violin restoration |
|
|
You'll get lots of practice doing repairs on that one. I've worked on several instruments like that. They're typically old, German factory instruments from the late 1800's- early 1900's, from perhaps the Markneukirchen area, or maybe from Checkoslovakia. The lack of corner blocks and the roughly gouged top (with a carved in bass bar) are pretty typical. You'll need to "press" hot hide glue into the cracks and then clamp them. The top will probably have to be graduated to get it smooth enough to puts cleats on it. The bass bar should be carved out and replaces at the same time. The corners can be reinforced with linen patches and glue if you don't want to fit blocks. Depending on the rib damage, you may be able to glue some maple veneer on the inside to reinforce them.
I've got a few pictures of similar restorations on my website.
Have fun! _________________ Doug Wall
www.wallindependent.com |
|
Back to top |
|
|
jethro Member
Joined: 07 Apr 2007 Posts: 178
|
Posted: Sat Jun 28, 2008 12:23 am Post subject: Yes yours looks like mine ! |
|
|
Doug,
I looked at the one on your website. The color of the top is very close.
Mine has painted on purfling. The bass bar is carved in. It had a 4 sided
pyramid shape and is low and wide- and it does not taper in height at the ends. It just kind of ends abruptly with an angled cut. I could do a
regraduation except I noticed the were one of the cracks was running through the plate thickness was very thin. Like maaybe .050 inches
Probably why there was a crack. I thought of putting on a new top but
I'd like to keep the old one. The little flat islands where the end blocks
glue down to the back aern't even flat. Another reason for new end blocks.
I can send you some picks of it if you are interested. Thanks for the info-
i suspected that nothing that crude could have been made by a famious
maker.
On an unrelated topic-
I think I know your next door neighbor.
I won't mention his name for privacy reasons- but he came to me about
a year ago and bought an antique car from me. He mentioned his neighbor was a violin maker and dealer. How many could there be in Rochester ? The car has horns on the front. Does that ring a bell ?
thanks for the info and the glueing tips !
Tim B. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
|