Violin Forum/Message Board

[adamgram]

Okay, so I just got my violin. I ordered if from the web and it came ups. I'm trying to set it up to play but I'm pretty clueless about how, and I'm hoping someone can help me out.

The bridge isn't attached. I'm assuming you just set it under the strings and the string tension holds it in place, but I'm confused as to where exactly to put it. I know on a guitar or any fretted instrument you'd play a harmonic halfway across the string and match that pitch and the 12th fret, but without frets, how do I know where to put it?

Also the bridge is slightly asymetrical... I'm assuming the higher half should be under the lower strings to hold them higher and compensate for the thickness, correct?

And, most importantly, I can't tighten the strings! They just spring back to the lower note. Am I missing something here? I'm used to doing this on a guitar, and after a couple winds it tightens up and you can pull it tighter and it stays there, but the guitar also has a nut where the strings sit in slots at the end of the fretboard, whereas on my violin it's just a straight piece with no slots. Am I missing a piece or do I just need to re-route the stings around the tuners so they wind around on both sides? I'm really quite confused about this, and before I start trying things I think I need a crash course on how these things work, so anyone who wants to post links or answer these questions for me, I'd really appreciate it! Thanks!

[Tim McTigue]

I really think you'd be best to take it to a music store where they sell violins, they will almost certainly have someone at the very least who comes in once or twice a week to do setups. I'm no expert, and have never done it, but I've read enough to know it's fairly involved to do it properly, and there are a number of things to check. For instance, the sound post should be checked to see if it's upright, and if it's in a reasonable place. This might need adjustment, and it's not something you can do without the right tool and knowledge. Proper bridge placement is also something that would be hard to get right unless you know what you're doing, and a competant luthier would also check to see if the bridge is properly carved - he might adjust that as well. If you don't have a good music store nearby, look to see if there's a luthier nearby, or someone who knows how to set up a violin.
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Tim
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[adamgram]

I don't know if it's worth it to take it anywhere professional. It's a dirt cheap 1/2 sized violin, it'd probably cost more to have it set up than I paid for it. I think I got it set up good enough to fool around with. The pegs seem to work all on friction, and just needed wedged into the holes tighter (pushed towards the center of the neck). I took a guess at the bridge position just based on picture I found online, and it seems to work okay.

I'm not too concerned with having it perfect, as it really isn't a high quality instrument at all. I basically got it just to fool around with and get used to using a bow and playing a fretless instrument. Once I feel comfortable enough with the violin that I know what to look for with that family of instruments I'm going to get a decent quality cello and set that up the right way.

Thank you for your advice, though. You're right, if I wanted it set up right it looks like a pro setup would be the best way to go.

[Barry1963]

The bridge should be lined up with the notches in the F holes, make sure bridge feet are flat on violin, no gaps. Use a tuner and dont overtune.

BECAREFUL pushing those pegs in, its real easy to crack the peg box if you start using your palm to push them.

Good luck and have fun.

[Becky]

You are correct about the higher end of the bridge holding the lower, thicker strings. Proper bridge setup is important, but if you're set on doing it on your own, line up the feet of the bridge with the inner notches of the f-holes. Also, when the bridge is in place, look closely at the way the feet fit the top of the violin. There should not be any spaces or gaps. If there are, you really should have a luthier fit the bridge properly.

Yes, the strings hold the bridge in place. Are you comfortable taking the strings off and putting them on again? If so, remove and replace them one at a time (less risk of the soundpost falling) and pull out the peg. There should be 2 shiny-looking rings around the peg where it rubs against the wood of the pegbox. The rings should look even all the way around. If they're not, you should get the pegs fit. Also, put the peg in without the string and see if it fits tight (as in secure, no need to force it in) and turns evenly. If all that's okay, put the string back on. As you're winding the string on, hold the string tight and also hold it against the side of the pegbox that the "knob" of the peg you're turning is. Also, push the peg slightly in while you turn. This should help hold the peg in place.

I'm a little confused by your question about the string placement with tuning. Your strings should be wound around the pegs inside the pegbox, then rest in the notches in the nut (a little piece at the top of the fingerboard), then rest in the grooves in the bridge, and end in the tailpiece/fine tuners. Does that help?

Also, not to discourage you, but generally adults/teenagers play a full size violin (4/4). The smaller fractional sizes are made for smaller bodies. If you're an average size full grown person, you'll probably struggle to play a 1/2 size violin. You may want to look into exchanging it for a 4/4.

[Shirley]

Adam - are you saying there are no slots for the strings in the nut? Have you put some in yourself? You probably know to make the slots very smooth, or they will break the strings. Weirdest thing I've ever heard of. Enjoy your little violin. A cello is very different, but you will probably be glad to be done with that fiddle, and on to a real instrument. Have fun!

Shirley

[mshikibu]

There's a photograph here that might help. See:

Setup
http://beststudentviolins.com/StringCareSpecs.html#10