View previous topic :: View next topic |
Author |
Message |
famuswood Member
Joined: 28 Sep 2009 Posts: 75 Location: Smyrna, TN
|
Posted: Wed Sep 30, 2009 3:14 pm Post subject: Using Dremel Tool to Cut Purfling Channel |
|
|
I enjoy custom woodcraft and also play the violin. I finally decided, with the encouragement of a woodworking friend, to pursue building a violin. I have made it to the point of cutting channels for the purfling. I decided the best approach for me was to use the Dremel tool. I was scared to death with the prospect of cutting into the plates after all the work that went into getting this far. I wanted to share with you that I was successful in cutting both plates with no mistakes at least in terms of what I was trying to accomplish. I decided that although I had seen others holding the plate with one hand and using the cutting tool freehand, it was not for me. I immobilized the cutting tool and used both hands to move around the plate. I wanted to find out from others much more skilled than I, if this is a good/acceptable approach. There is a picture of my setup at the site shown above. Any feedback would be much appreciated.http://famuswood.blogspot.com
Last edited by famuswood on Tue Oct 27, 2009 3:57 pm; edited 1 time in total |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Andres Sender Super Member
Joined: 23 Mar 2007 Posts: 275 Location: N. CA
|
Posted: Wed Sep 30, 2009 3:56 pm Post subject: |
|
|
I empathize with the preference for using both hands. I'd say if it worked, it's good!
From what I've seen, using one hand to hold the power tool and one hand to move the plate can work very well, but it takes some practice. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
CT Dolan Member
Joined: 29 Jun 2008 Posts: 143
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
Andres Sender Super Member
Joined: 23 Mar 2007 Posts: 275 Location: N. CA
|
|
Back to top |
|
|
famuswood Member
Joined: 28 Sep 2009 Posts: 75 Location: Smyrna, TN
|
Posted: Thu Oct 01, 2009 9:31 am Post subject: |
|
|
What I now realize, looking at Michael's tool, is that it assures the depth of the groove with the guide projecting just above the cutter bit. The way I cut the channels there is not that assurance. It is possible for the plate to lift slightly causing an overly deep cut. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
famuswood Member
Joined: 28 Sep 2009 Posts: 75 Location: Smyrna, TN
|
Posted: Thu Oct 01, 2009 9:39 am Post subject: |
|
|
I just saw your purfling jig! Nice job! So what you've done is similar to what I tried to do, only much nicer. I see that Foredom tool around a lot, too. I have never taken the dive to get one at this point. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Michael Darnton Moderator
Joined: 23 Mar 2007 Posts: 1281 Location: Chicago
|
Posted: Thu Oct 01, 2009 11:30 am Post subject: |
|
|
Another way to do it, which I have tried, but don't do, is using a drill press.
Use a wood sheet on the table, and screw a pan-head screw into the sheet. By moving the sheet around, you can line up the screw so that the screw shaft-to-router bit (in the chuck) distance is the distance the purfling is in from the edge, and you screw the screw in far enough that it holds the edge down on the table (leaving just enough space so the plate can slide easily. The final step is to use an elastic strap on the drill press handle to hold the chuck down unless you pull it up.
Lift the chuck, slide in the plate, turn on the drill press, drop the chuck in, and away you go.
If you already have the drill press, the only cost is for the screw and the router bit. If you want to be fancy, put a sleeve on the screw so that the plate runs against it instead of the threads.
With the drill press set to its highest speed, this does a decent job. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Joseph Leahy Member
Joined: 23 Mar 2008 Posts: 98 Location: Ontario, Canada
|
Posted: Thu Oct 01, 2009 1:17 pm Post subject: Thanks Michael |
|
|
Michael
The intention is not to hijack the thread but to just add a comment.
I know that this has been said many times before in many different forums but I'm reading this on lunch at work and felt compelled to say again how much I (and am sure many others) appreciate you taking the time to read the posts here and in other forums and make valuable comments and observations to assist others on a regular basis.
Having operated my own business in the past, I know how valuable a commodity your time must be and just wanted to once again say thanks!!
Joe |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Michael Darnton Moderator
Joined: 23 Mar 2007 Posts: 1281 Location: Chicago
|
Posted: Thu Oct 01, 2009 2:52 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Thanks. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Andres Sender Super Member
Joined: 23 Mar 2007 Posts: 275 Location: N. CA
|
Posted: Thu Oct 01, 2009 3:05 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Famus--mine is not a Foredom but a Grizzly, which are cheap but quite functional. You just have to deal with being limited to carbide micro mills since the chuck doesn't go small enough to fit available high speed steel micro mills. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Michael Darnton Moderator
Joined: 23 Mar 2007 Posts: 1281 Location: Chicago
|
Posted: Thu Oct 01, 2009 4:14 pm Post subject: |
|
|
Small enough, or large enough? I use the Grizzly motor, but a Foredom 44b handpiece fits it, and will take collets up to 1/4", fitting HSS 3/16" shaft bits. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
famuswood Member
Joined: 28 Sep 2009 Posts: 75 Location: Smyrna, TN
|
Posted: Thu Oct 01, 2009 4:49 pm Post subject: |
|
|
What a great bunch to chat with. I really learn a whole lot from you all and really appreciate it. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
Andres Sender Super Member
Joined: 23 Mar 2007 Posts: 275 Location: N. CA
|
Posted: Fri Oct 02, 2009 1:36 am Post subject: |
|
|
Michael is right, I am backwards. The Grizzly handpiece does not open large enough to take the 3/16" shaft size which is the only one in which HSS micro mills are generally available. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
famuswood Member
Joined: 28 Sep 2009 Posts: 75 Location: Smyrna, TN
|
Posted: Fri Oct 02, 2009 8:29 am Post subject: |
|
|
A couple more things about the dremel tool setup for what it is worth: My dremel tool spins clockwise and can only cut well traveling from right to left. I know for a lot of people this may be woodworking 101 but still good info for neophytes. Another aspect is the need for a handy power cutoff. Michael, I believe, uses a foot pedal. I used the switch on my portable routing table, positioned close to dremel setup so I could lift one hand from the work to kill/start the power. I also learned that when starting a new section of the channel, I could lift up and rest the bit exactly where I wanted to begin on the plate and then, while holding the plate with one hand and turning on the power with the other, could begin a new section. The bit dropped straight down with no deviations and I could begin traveling around the plate. This may not be the best practice, but that is what I ended up doing. |
|
Back to top |
|
|
famuswood Member
Joined: 28 Sep 2009 Posts: 75 Location: Smyrna, TN
|
Posted: Fri Oct 02, 2009 8:46 am Post subject: |
|
|
I just realized that saying "right to left" depends on how you are positioned with the plate. I held the plate in front of me cutting on the far side of it which rested against the purfling router guide and was actually moving the plate to the right while cutting right to left. I hope that makes sense! |
|
Back to top |
|
|
|